Hello From Sicily: My Italian Language Learning Adventure - Exploring The Beauty Of Sicily And Sailing Through The Eolian Islands

Sicily - the name alone conjures up images of anboat.
exotic island, a mysterious and fascinating past. IOn the third day we set sail for the island of
have wanted to explore Italy for some time nowStromboli, which is still an active volcano. The
since I had not been there for a long, long time,town of Stromboli features such narrow streets
and when I was pondering which region of Italy tothat they are impassable to regular vehicles. No
explore Sicily came to mind. I figured this islandwonder the local "carabinieri" (Italian police officers)
would offer a combination of fascinating history,have to ride in golf carts.
rich culture, scenic beauty, and an opportunity forAfter a somewhat turbulent late-night voyage
a wide variety of activities. One activity Ifrom Stromboli to Panarea we arrived late and
definitely wanted to pursue was to combine myanchored in a bay off the island. On a gorgeous
journey with language studies: my earlier languagemorning the next day we first had another
study trips to Havana and Cuernavaca, Mexico,language lesson - where else but on the outdoor
not only got me closer to the Spanish language,patio of a bar in Panarea, surrounded by gorgeous
but these on-site language learning experiencessunshine and beautiful flowers. Panarea is an
really allowed me to explore the culture fromextremely photogenic destination and offered
within.great opportunities for hobby photographers like
So this time I was going to focus on learningme.
Italian, and I was able to locate two languageOur voyage continued to Lipari again where we
schools in Sicily that would both provide a totallywould end an eventful day with a scrumptious
different experience and a different way ofoutdoor feast on the main square. The next day
exploring the island. Armed with no priorthree of us went on a driving tour of this beautiful
knowledge other than having read through anisland and from the south end we already saw
Italian grammar book, I was going to see howour next destination: the island of Vulcano, which
much of this beautiful language I would pick up inalso features an active volcano. We anchored in a
my three weeks in Sicily.bay off this island, enjoyed some Italian lessons
My first eight days were spent in Taormina, aon the boat and after a delicious on-board dinner,
gorgeous mountain-top town on the eastern sideour shipmates Franco, a gifted guitar player, and
of Sicily, whose main distinguishing feature is anAgnieszka, a talented singer, entertained us with
ancient Greco-Roman Theatre that is still in usesoulful melodies by candlelight on the back of the
today. The town itself has to be among the mostboat - magical moments that I will not forget for
picturesque destinations anywhere, with itsa long time.
beautiful buildings, narrow streets andThen our final day on the boat arrived: we hiked
passageways and stunning views of Mount Etnaup to the "Gran Cratere", the active crater of
and the Mediterranean.Vulcano. Yellow rocks and thick clouds of sulphur
Shortly after my arrival I got to meet the peopleannounced that the forces of geology were
at the Babilonia Language School where I wouldindeed active right underneath our feet. And the
be learning Italian for a week and exploring theview from the top over the six other Eolian
culture of Sicily. My accommodation was in aIslands was breathtaking. After another Italian
lovely 13-room privately owned hotel that haslesson on an outdoor patio overlooking the
been operated by the Sciglio family for more thanMediterranean we had to say goodbye to the
50 years.Eolian Islands and start to head back to Milazzo.
Mr. and Mrs. Sciglio are in their mid-eighties andJust as I thought our 7 day sailing trip would
continue to work extremely hard, without even acome to an anticlimactic end, one of my
thought of retirement, and their son Salvatoreshipmates announced "DOLPHINS!!!", and indeed
works with them. In an interview I learned morefour of these playful sea creatures were
about the hotel's history and the family'saccompanying our sailboat, jumping in and out of
involvement in this business. On the second day Ithe water, and having fun with us. The
joined my first guided excursion with the Babiloniaexcitement continued when we ended up catching
language school: a guided hike to the ancient villagethree tunas on a fishing line we had been dragging
of Castelmola which was followed by a tasting ofbehind our boat. The following decapitation and
Sicilian delicacies in a local bistro.evisceration scene though was a bit hard on my
My first weekend in Sicily promised to be great:tender vegetarian soul...
an excursion to the ancient town of Siracusa andSo we had reached land, and to celebrate the
an exploration of the gorgeous coastline just eastconclusion of a wonderful sailing trip and one of
of Taormina, including the town of Mazzaro andmy shipmates' birthdays we enjoyed another big
Isola Bella. The following Monday was my first daySicilian feast in Capo di Milazzo. The next day, we
of language studies: first we went through thehad a chance to relax a bit in our five-bedroom
placement test, and then we had our first lessonapartment conveniently located above the
which included some unique yet effective teachingLaboratorio Linguistico Language School and do
methods. The next day was May 1, Italian Laboursimple things like laundry and sit on the balcony.
Day and a national holiday: a perfect opportunityFranco, our language teacher took us on a guided
to rent a car and drive into the countrysidewalk of Milazzo which features a huge fortification
surrounding Mount Etna, Europe's largest volcano,that dates back more than 1000 years.
which by the way, had erupted the night before.After saying goodbye to my roommate Claudia I
The next day it was back to school, andspent my final Sunday in Sicily in the picturesque
Alessandro, the director of the Babilonia languagemedieval town of Cefalu, about a two-hour train
school, gave me a personal history lesson aboutride from Milazzo. That city's medieval core and
Sicily and also explained the origins of that famoushuge Norman cathedral together with the ruins of
Sicilian institution, the Mafia, to me in detail. Thatan ancient castle on top of the rock that towers
evening I joined in a cooking class in a privateover the town left me with many vibrant
home offered by the language school. I was goingtreasured memories. Now I only had two full days
to see first-hand how a real multi-course Italianleft in Sicily.
meal was prepared, using authentic, locally grownFollowing a tour of the Milazzo headquarters of
ingredients. And of course, I would have a chanceLaboratorio Linguistico I went on a country
to taste the finished delicacies afterwards andexcursion into the surrounding Nebrodi Mountains
partake of a nice meal with other languagewith my two Italian teachers Francesco and
students and the local Ferrari family.Franco. We visited the Rocks of Agrimusco, a
My language studies the next day were followedcluster of mysterious-looking rocks on a high
by a visit to a local pottery painting artist, asplateau with a gorgeous view of Mount Etna. Then
Babilonia also offers pottery decoration courses, inwe headed into the hilltop town of Montalbano
addition to hiking, biking, golfing and divingElicona, an authentic small Sicilian town, completely
programs. Perched on the rooftop patio of auntouched by tourism. I finally had a chance to
Taormina hotel, with a perfect view of an ancientsnap some pictures of the locals who love to
palazzo right next to Mount Etna, I learned aboutcongregate next to the church and discuss
Sicilian pottery painting techniques. In the lateimportant issues of the day.
afternoon I joined another excursion to hike upMy final day in Sicily had arrived - I had to say
the southern flanks of Mount Etna. A visit to agoodbye to the great team at Laboratorio
winery and a nice dinner followed.Linguistico and board the bus towards Messina and
Then I had reached my last day in beautifulfrom there to Catania from where I would catch
Taormina and after my final language lessons ita plane in the early morning the next day. After
was time to say goodbye to the folks atmy arrival in the late afternoon I had a chance to
Babilonia, and to my co-students, whom I hadbriefly explore this city, the second-largest city in
gotten quite fond of. With the exception of theSicily, and get ready for my flight home.
occasionally grey and drizzly weather, myOn this trip I found out that Sicily is gorgeous, and
experience in Taormina had been great: thea visit in the late spring around April / May is
language learning, the interesting excursions andperfect since everything is in full bloom and the
activities and the interaction with my internationalhoards of tourists do not really arrive until June,
co-students had been a really great experience. IJuly and August. Sicily has remained amazingly
was a bit sad to leave Taormina where I hadauthentic and is fortunately free of many of the
gotten so comfortable.signs of mass tourism that mar other
But a new adventure was about to begin: I tookMediterranean coastlines.
the train to Milazzo on the northeastern side ofTaormina and the Eolian Islands are all stunning
Sicily, where the next day I would embark on adestinations, but the Sicilian hinterland in itself holds
seven-day sailing trip through the beautiful Eolianmany hidden treasures. The history, architecture,
Islands, offered by Laboratorio Linguistico, aculture and scenic beauty are astounding. And
Milazzo-based Italian language school. Afterseafood lovers will definitely fall in love with this
meeting some of my six shipmates, who weredestination.
really cool by the way, we were off on ourI myself really enjoyed the language learning
sailboat, the 4 cabin "Solitaire II", to our firstexperience at Babilonia and Laboratorio Linguistico
destination: the island of Lipari, the largest of the- as a matter of fact, my three weeks in Italy
Eolian Islands, and an extremely scenic place.took me all the way up to Intermediate level and
Our expert skipper Francesco, a licensed captain,when I came back I was quite capable of
also happened to be the co-owner of thecommunicating fairly competently in this new
language school, and one of our two residentlanguage.
language teachers on this sailing trip. After LipariThe people were great: the staff at both
we continued our sailing trip to Salina, alanguage schools was very helpful and
neighbouring island, where three of us went on aknowledgeable, and the interaction with my
driving tour to see local villages and also the houseco-students from all different countries was a real
where "Il Postino" was filmed. An Italian lesson ontreat. Our crew on the sailboat in particular came
the backyard patio of a bar was our firsttogether really nicely and some close personal
introduction to Laboratorio Lingustico's languagebonds had developed after this experience.
teaching program. Of course Francesco andWithout a doubt, language study travel is one of
Franco, our second teacher and co-owner of thethe best forms of travel in my opinion, giving you
school, conducted all conversations during thethe chance to learn, to expand your mind, and to
entire sailing trip in Italian only, which allowed us toreally discover the local culture. And without a
be fully immersed in the language all the time.doubt I'll be back in Sicily - this fascinating island
After we had nourished our brains, a Sicilianhas so much more to explore.
seafood feast capped off our second day on the