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Article #241: Hello From Sicily: My Italian Language Learning Adventure - Exploring The Beauty Of Sicily And Sailing Through The Eolian Islands

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Sicily - the name alone conjures up time. After we had nourished our brains,
images of an exotic island, a mysterious a Sicilian seafood feast capped off our
and fascinating past. I have wanted to second day on the boat.
explore Italy for some time now since I On the third day we set sail for the
had not been there for a long, long time, island of Stromboli, which is still an
and when I was pondering which region of active volcano. The town of Stromboli
Italy to explore Sicily came to mind. I features such narrow streets that they
figured this island would offer a are impassable to regular vehicles. No
combination of fascinating history, rich wonder the local "carabinieri" (Italian
culture, scenic beauty, and an police officers) have to ride in golf
opportunity for a wide variety of carts.
activities. One activity I definitely After a somewhat turbulent late-night
wanted to pursue was to combine my voyage from Stromboli to Panarea we
journey with language studies: my earlier arrived late and anchored in a bay off
language study trips to Havana and the island. On a gorgeous morning the
Cuernavaca, Mexico, not only got me next day we first had another language
closer to the Spanish language, but these lesson - where else but on the outdoor
on-site language learning experiences patio of a bar in Panarea, surrounded by
really allowed me to explore the culture gorgeous sunshine and beautiful flowers.
from within. Panarea is an extremely photogenic
So this time I was going to focus on destination and offered great
learning Italian, and I was able to opportunities for hobby photographers
locate two language schools in Sicily like me.
that would both provide a totally Our voyage continued to Lipari again
different experience and a different way where we would end an eventful day with a
of exploring the island. Armed with no scrumptious outdoor feast on the main
prior knowledge other than having read square. The next day three of us went on
through an Italian grammar book, I was a driving tour of this beautiful island
going to see how much of this beautiful and from the south end we already saw our
language I would pick up in my three next destination: the island of Vulcano,
weeks in Sicily. which also features an active volcano. We
My first eight days were spent in anchored in a bay off this island,
Taormina, a gorgeous mountain-top town on enjoyed some Italian lessons on the boat
the eastern side of Sicily, whose main and after a delicious on-board dinner,
distinguishing feature is an ancient our shipmates Franco, a gifted guitar
Greco-Roman Theatre that is still in use player, and Agnieszka, a talented singer,
today. The town itself has to be among entertained us with soulful melodies by
the most picturesque destinations candlelight on the back of the boat -
anywhere, with its beautiful buildings, magical moments that I will not forget
narrow streets and passageways and for a long time.
stunning views of Mount Etna and the Then our final day on the boat arrived:
Mediterranean. we hiked up to the "Gran Cratere", the
Shortly after my arrival I got to meet active crater of Vulcano. Yellow rocks
the people at the Babilonia Language and thick clouds of sulphur announced
School where I would be learning Italian that the forces of geology were indeed
for a week and exploring the culture of active right underneath our feet. And the
Sicily. My accommodation was in a lovely view from the top over the six other
13-room privately owned hotel that has Eolian Islands was breathtaking. After
been operated by the Sciglio family for another Italian lesson on an outdoor
more than 50 years. patio overlooking the Mediterranean we
Mr. and Mrs. Sciglio are in their had to say goodbye to the Eolian Islands
mid-eighties and continue to work and start to head back to Milazzo.
extremely hard, without even a thought of Just as I thought our 7 day sailing trip
retirement, and their son Salvatore works would come to an anticlimactic end, one
with them. In an interview I learned more of my shipmates announced "DOLPHINS!!!",
about the hotel's history and the and indeed four of these playful sea
family's involvement in this business. On creatures were accompanying our sailboat,
the second day I joined my first guided jumping in and out of the water, and
excursion with the Babilonia language having fun with us. The excitement
school: a guided hike to the ancient continued when we ended up catching three
village of Castelmola which was followed tunas on a fishing line we had been
by a tasting of Sicilian delicacies in a dragging behind our boat. The following
local bistro. decapitation and evisceration scene
My first weekend in Sicily promised to be though was a bit hard on my tender
great: an excursion to the ancient town vegetarian soul...
of Siracusa and an exploration of the So we had reached land, and to celebrate
gorgeous coastline just east of Taormina, the conclusion of a wonderful sailing
including the town of Mazzaro and Isola trip and one of my shipmates' birthdays
Bella. The following Monday was my first we enjoyed another big Sicilian feast in
day of language studies: first we went Capo di Milazzo. The next day, we had a
through the placement test, and then we chance to relax a bit in our five-bedroom
had our first lesson which included some apartment conveniently located above the
unique yet effective teaching methods. Laboratorio Linguistico Language School
The next day was May 1, Italian Labour and do simple things like laundry and sit
Day and a national holiday: a perfect on the balcony. Franco, our language
opportunity to rent a car and drive into teacher took us on a guided walk of
the countryside surrounding Mount Etna, Milazzo which features a huge
Europe's largest volcano, which by the fortification that dates back more than
way, had erupted the night before. 1000 years.
The next day it was back to school, and After saying goodbye to my roommate
Alessandro, the director of the Babilonia Claudia I spent my final Sunday in Sicily
language school, gave me a personal in the picturesque medieval town of
history lesson about Sicily and also Cefalu, about a two-hour train ride from
explained the origins of that famous Milazzo. That city's medieval core and
Sicilian institution, the Mafia, to me in huge Norman cathedral together with the
detail. That evening I joined in a ruins of an ancient castle on top of the
cooking class in a private home offered rock that towers over the town left me
by the language school. I was going to with many vibrant treasured memories. Now
see first-hand how a real multi-course I only had two full days left in Sicily.
Italian meal was prepared, using Following a tour of the Milazzo
authentic, locally grown ingredients. And headquarters of Laboratorio Linguistico I
of course, I would have a chance to taste went on a country excursion into the
the finished delicacies afterwards and surrounding Nebrodi Mountains with my two
partake of a nice meal with other Italian teachers Francesco and Franco. We
language students and the local Ferrari visited the Rocks of Agrimusco, a cluster
family. of mysterious-looking rocks on a high
My language studies the next day were plateau with a gorgeous view of Mount
followed by a visit to a local pottery Etna. Then we headed into the hilltop
painting artist, as Babilonia also offers town of Montalbano Elicona, an authentic
pottery decoration courses, in addition small Sicilian town, completely untouched
to hiking, biking, golfing and diving by tourism. I finally had a chance to
programs. Perched on the rooftop patio of snap some pictures of the locals who love
a Taormina hotel, with a perfect view of to congregate next to the church and
an ancient palazzo right next to Mount discuss important issues of the day.
Etna, I learned about Sicilian pottery My final day in Sicily had arrived - I
painting techniques. In the late had to say goodbye to the great team at
afternoon I joined another excursion to Laboratorio Linguistico and board the bus
hike up the southern flanks of Mount towards Messina and from there to Catania
Etna. A visit to a winery and a nice from where I would catch a plane in the
dinner followed. early morning the next day. After my
Then I had reached my last day in arrival in the late afternoon I had a
beautiful Taormina and after my final chance to briefly explore this city, the
language lessons it was time to say second-largest city in Sicily, and get
goodbye to the folks at Babilonia, and to ready for my flight home.
my co-students, whom I had gotten quite On this trip I found out that Sicily is
fond of. With the exception of the gorgeous, and a visit in the late spring
occasionally grey and drizzly weather, my around April / May is perfect since
experience in Taormina had been great: everything is in full bloom and the
the language learning, the interesting hoards of tourists do not really arrive
excursions and activities and the until June, July and August. Sicily has
interaction with my international remained amazingly authentic and is
co-students had been a really great fortunately free of many of the signs of
experience. I was a bit sad to leave mass tourism that mar other Mediterranean
Taormina where I had gotten so coastlines.
comfortable. Taormina and the Eolian Islands are all
But a new adventure was about to begin: I stunning destinations, but the Sicilian
took the train to Milazzo on the hinterland in itself holds many hidden
northeastern side of Sicily, where the treasures. The history, architecture,
next day I would embark on a seven-day culture and scenic beauty are astounding.
sailing trip through the beautiful Eolian And seafood lovers will definitely fall
Islands, offered by Laboratorio in love with this destination.
Linguistico, a Milazzo-based Italian I myself really enjoyed the language
language school. After meeting some of my learning experience at Babilonia and
six shipmates, who were really cool by Laboratorio Linguistico - as a matter of
the way, we were off on our sailboat, the fact, my three weeks in Italy took me all
4 cabin "Solitaire II", to our first the way up to Intermediate level and when
destination: the island of Lipari, the I came back I was quite capable of
largest of the Eolian Islands, and an communicating fairly competently in this
extremely scenic place. new language.
Our expert skipper Francesco, a licensed The people were great: the staff at both
captain, also happened to be the co-owner language schools was very helpful and
of the language school, and one of our knowledgeable, and the interaction with
two resident language teachers on this my co-students from all different
sailing trip. After Lipari we continued countries was a real treat. Our crew on
our sailing trip to Salina, a the sailboat in particular came together
neighbouring island, where three of us really nicely and some close personal
went on a driving tour to see local bonds had developed after this
villages and also the house where "Il experience.
Postino" was filmed. An Italian lesson on Without a doubt, language study travel is
the backyard patio of a bar was our first one of the best forms of travel in my
introduction to Laboratorio Lingustico's opinion, giving you the chance to learn,
language teaching program. Of course to expand your mind, and to really
Francesco and Franco, our second teacher discover the local culture. And without a
and co-owner of the school, conducted all doubt I'll be back in Sicily - this
conversations during the entire sailing fascinating island has so much more to
trip in Italian only, which allowed us to explore.
be fully immersed in the language all the






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