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Lardo di Colonnata : A Tuscan Delicacy

Pork is a staple food of the mountain regionsmuch the same way as Parma Ham or other
of northern Italy, where it's often said thatprosciutto.
a well butchered pig should leave 'nothing
but the oink' behind. As a pig is typicallyWhile Lardo is often used to keep roasted
around 30% fat, thrifty locals had to come upmeats moist by placing a thin layer over the
with a way to use and preserve this valuableskin, it is also delicious simply sliced
source  of  protein, and the result is Lardo.thinly and eaten with bread, olives, and a
good extra virgin olive oil as part of an
Lardo di Colonnata, to give it its full name,antipasto course. It is not at all tough or
is a delicacy produced from pork fat in andgreasy, and is well worth trying even if the
around the Tuscan mountain town of Colonnata.idea of eating pure fat leaves you a little
Happily for fans of cured meat, it's not onlyapprehensive!
a frugal way of preserving pork fat over
winter  -  it's  delicious  too!Despite the long years of making Lardo in the
traditional way, most of the examples that
It's made in large vats known as conche,you may find in your local deli or store will
fashioned from marble quarried at the nearbyhave been made in a much more industrial
'white mountain' of Cararra, which are firstsetting, mainly as a result of modern hygiene
liberally rubbed with garlic. Next, layers oflaws taking precedence over customs and
pork fat, salt, and a special mix of herbsheritage. Gone are the marble conche and the
and spices are added until the vats are full.mountain air, replaced by stainless steel and
The conche are then sealed with a wooden lidair  conditioning.
and left in cool mountain caves for 6 months
or  longer  to  mature  in  the  clean  air.However, visitors to the area around
Colonnata may still be lucky and get hold of
After the maturation time is over, the concheLardo made in the old way that has been
are opened to reveal a silky-smooth,proven over the centuries - just don't tell
meltingly tender 'meat' which can be eaten inthe authorities if you do!



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