Lardo di Colonnata : A Tuscan Delicacy

Pork is a staple food of the mountain regions of'meat' which can be eaten in much the same way
northern Italy, where it's often said that a wellas Parma Ham or other prosciutto.
butchered pig should leave 'nothing but the oink'While Lardo is often used to keep roasted meats
behind. As a pig is typically around 30% fat,moist by placing a thin layer over the skin, it is
thrifty locals had to come up with a way to usealso delicious simply sliced thinly and eaten with
and preserve this valuable source of protein, andbread, olives, and a good extra virgin olive oil as
the result is Lardo.part of an antipasto course. It is not at all tough
Lardo di Colonnata, to give it its full name, is aor greasy, and is well worth trying even if the
delicacy produced from pork fat in and aroundidea of eating pure fat leaves you a little
the Tuscan mountain town of Colonnata. Happilyapprehensive!
for fans of cured meat, it's not only a frugal wayDespite the long years of making Lardo in the
of preserving pork fat over winter - it's delicioustraditional way, most of the examples that you
too!may find in your local deli or store will have been
It's made in large vats known as conche,made in a much more industrial setting, mainly as
fashioned from marble quarried at the nearbya result of modern hygiene laws taking
'white mountain' of Cararra, which are first liberallyprecedence over customs and heritage. Gone are
rubbed with garlic. Next, layers of pork fat, salt,the marble conche and the mountain air, replaced
and a special mix of herbs and spices are addedby stainless steel and air conditioning.
until the vats are full. The conche are then sealedHowever, visitors to the area around Colonnata
with a wooden lid and left in cool mountain cavesmay still be lucky and get hold of Lardo made in
for 6 months or longer to mature in the clean air.the old way that has been proven over the
After the maturation time is over, the conche arecenturies - just don't tell the authorities if you do!
opened to reveal a silky-smooth, meltingly tender