| NOTE: The following are only suggested | | | | largest in Mesoamerica, its tombs, the |
| routes, and are subject to revision, | | | | labyrinth structure, and the fortress high up |
| additions and deletions depending on the | | | | the mountain from which one cannot help but |
| specific interests of the client. They have | | | | be impressed by the gorgeous views of the |
| been designed to maximize the diversity of | | | | surrounding mountains and valley; |
| your cultural experience while economizing | | | | |
| your time, with virtually no repeated | | | | NOTE: From the perspective of trying to |
| traversing of highways to get to another | | | | impart a broad range of knowledge in terms of |
| site. Certainly route changes can be made, | | | | Oaxacan society past and present, and the |
| but often this entails some backtracking. | | | | diversity of craft and other cultural |
| Tours are private in nature, meaning that | | | | traditions, while at the same time providing |
| you, your partner, family members and / or | | | | an opportunity for making purchases, the |
| own small group decide which sites to visit | | | | foregoing are the two most important routes. |
| and for how long. Under no circumstances | | | | However, there is much more, as is |
| will you be paired with other tourists. | | | | exemplified by the following additional |
| Transportation is by car, truck or large van | | | | routes: |
| depending on the number in the group and the | | | | |
| route selected. | | | | ROUTE THREE: |
| | | | |
| ROUTE ONE: | | | | Reference was made above to the availability |
| | | | of a full day's activity touring the tiny |
| *black pottery village of San Bartolo | | | | mountain villages where the quaintest and |
| Coyotepec, with demonstration of the | | | | most simple of mezcal "factories" exist. |
| technique and its history by (usually) Don | | | | Learn to discern the taste nuances as we |
| Valente Nieto, son of the late Doña Rosa | | | | sample from a few facilities. Stop for |
| who developed the method subsequently | | | | comida along a secondary highway at a |
| followed by other villagers; then, for those | | | | combined "fabrica de mezcal" and roadside |
| interested in unique hand-crafted jewelry | | | | eatery. This experience can (and certainly |
| pieces, for 30 years town resident Armando | | | | ought to be) combined with a trip to Hierve |
| Lozano has been making one-of-a-kind brass | | | | el Agua and perhaps a couple of the other |
| pieces using attractive acid-induced accent | | | | sites of your choice along ROUTE TWO, making |
| shades in green and aquamarine...his workshop | | | | for probably the most real Oaxacan |
| is close to Doña Rosa's, and therefore | | | | experiences of your entire trip. |
| well worth a brief stop; | | | | |
| | | | ROUTE FOUR: |
| *San MartÃn Tilcajete, the village known | | | | |
| for its wooden hand-carved and brilliantly | | | | *beginning with a trip up the mountain just |
| painted animals often generically referred to | | | | outside of Oaxaca proper to Monte Albán, |
| as alebrijes; visits to a number of workshops | | | | we connect you with a government authorized |
| illustrating differences in qualities and | | | | English speaking Oaxacan guide who |
| subject matter; for those interested in | | | | specializes in only Monte Albán; the |
| collector-quality pieces, arrangements can be | | | | total cost of the guide is deducted from your |
| made to visit the workshop of arguably the | | | | total price for the day... that's only fair; |
| best in the state, Jacobo and MarÃa | | | | the tour of the ruin usually takes a couple |
| Ängeles, for a most fascinating | | | | of hours; there's also a small museum and |
| demonstration of the utility of natural | | | | gift shop in the main welcome center; before |
| pigments for paints, the different uses of | | | | noon you would be ready to carry on with me |
| the male and female copal tree including | | | | for the balance of the day's touring, after |
| trunk, bark and sap, the importance of | | | | having regained your energy by relaxing and |
| Zapotec designs for symbolism, etc; if | | | | having a drink in the open air cafeteria at |
| traveling with children, arrangements can be | | | | the site; |
| made to visit another workshop where they can | | | | |
| select their favorite animal and paint a | | | | *the green glazed pottery village of Atzompa |
| carving of it for a nominal fee...just | | | | is a fairly short drive from Monte Albán; |
| provide details in advance (and yes, we have | | | | the marketplace has an incredible diversity |
| a car seat for the infants and toddlers); | | | | of kitchen items and utensils, sculptures, |
| | | | flower pots, hanging ornaments and lamps, |
| *cotton textile pueblito of Santo Tomás | | | | complete sets of dishes, etc.; a lot of the |
| Jalieza, where women weave table runners, | | | | work is in fact not the green glazed, but |
| placements, purses and much more using a back | | | | rather pottery in attractive pastel colors |
| strap loom, and are quite adept at their | | | | and terra cotta; you can also visit some of |
| clothing embroidering skills as well; | | | | the actual workshops, have a demonstration, |
| there's also a factory which supplies high | | | | etc; for those interested in "high end" |
| end hotels and restaurants throughout the | | | | collector pieces, somewhat different from the |
| country with tablecloths, bedspreads, | | | | work of most of the local craftspeople in the |
| draperies, etc, where you can place special | | | | village, a visit to the workshop of reknowned |
| orders...your choice of color and pattern, | | | | artist Angélica Vásquez Cruz is a must. |
| 100% cotton or a 90/10 blend for greater ease | | | | Angélica is featured in most of the books |
| of washing, size, and so on...or choose from | | | | about the country's popular folk art. Her |
| a broad range of product on hand; you'll | | | | home and workshop is at the end of an |
| have a fascinating demonstration of the steps | | | | ascending rocky road which during the rainy |
| in the production process; | | | | season is often best negotiated on foot, but |
| | | | either way, the challenging climb is worth |
| *the homes and workshops of the Aguilar | | | | the effort. She's an extraordinary raconteur |
| sisters whose mother first began making | | | | who will vividly relate her complex and |
| brightly painted clay figures at age 11, in | | | | moving history to those interested, and |
| the 1940s...now a fourth generation is | | | | proudly explain her intricate highest of |
| continuing the tradition; with the passage of | | | | quality ceramic pieces heavily influenced by |
| time the diversity of figurines and imagery | | | | indigenous legends and Mexican history. She |
| has expanded to include representations of | | | | regularly wins national folk art competitions |
| Day of the Dead, Catholic religious themes, | | | | and is honored by being asked to give |
| whimsical figures with strong sexual images, | | | | workshops in the US. |
| and townspeople at market and in traditional | | | | |
| regional dress...fired in the most | | | | *the ruin of San José el Mogote is one of |
| "primitive" of clay brick hearths; | | | | the least touristed ruins in the region, and |
| | | | has a serene feel to it; there's a wonderful |
| *the combined home and gallery of the late | | | | small museum alongside the ruin housed in a |
| Maestro of contemporary Oaxacan art, Rodolfo | | | | 16th century hacienda...the key to the museum |
| Morales, and his large fresco mural in the | | | | must be tracked down from the townsperson |
| central square (zócalo) of the town of | | | | then in charge of the museum; actual |
| Ocotlán...there's also a museum which | | | | artifacts are sometimes available from one |
| includes original art from the Conquest | | | | family which lives at the base of the ruin, |
| period and by the Maestro; | | | | on the "QT," though not at all endorsed by me |
| | | | because of the prohibition attached to their |
| *the knifemaking workshop of Ãngel | | | | sale and removal from the country...but they |
| Aguilar, second of three generations of | | | | do exist; |
| craftsmen in the family; only recycled metals | | | | |
| are used to produce the knives and other | | | | *on Wednesdays the Etla marketplace is held, |
| weapons, cutlery, and more; his oven is made | | | | smaller than those enumerated in the previous |
| of stone and clay; fascinating demonstration | | | | routes, but nevertheless interesting, quaint |
| of the techniques and materials used in | | | | and at the same time bustling; there is also |
| making both blades and handles, even for | | | | a traditional chocolate factory where you can |
| those with little or no interest in the | | | | have your own chocolate made on the spot from |
| subject matter; watch Ängel engrave a | | | | the raw ingredients, usually cacao, sugar, |
| piece with a surname, rhyme or limerick; | | | | cinnamon and sometimes almonds...tasting |
| | | | Oaxacan chocolate is a must, whether here or |
| *on Fridays, the marketplace of Ocotlán | | | | in one of the downtown facilities...if you |
| where locals from the hinterland come to buy | | | | prefer less sugar, more cinnamon, etc, the |
| virtually all of their worldly needs...also a | | | | option is yours; |
| handicraft market; | | | | |
| | | | *for those interested in sculpture, about 10 |
| OPTIONAL (while none of the foregoing is | | | | minutes up the road from the town of Etla is |
| etched in stone, other sites can be visited | | | | the village of Magdalena Etla known for its |
| as well subject to time and particular | | | | cantera stone quarries and the sculptors who |
| interests such as): | | | | work with the stone in pink, yellow and green |
| | | | hues; Maestro Adolfo Cruz will show you his |
| **16th Century church and monastery complex | | | | facility used in making both stone and bronze |
| at Cuilapam noted for its expansiveness, and | | | | pieces, and in fact he's the only one in the |
| the fact that construction ceased with | | | | state, he boasts, with a foundry; His |
| escalation of a dispute between The Church | | | | daughter Nely, following in her father's |
| and the Cortés family; apart from some | | | | footsteps, teaches at the College of Fine |
| restoration in the 1950s, there has been no | | | | Arts at the Benito Juarez University, and is |
| important modification since the 1580s; | | | | a respected multi-media artist in her own |
| | | | right. She usually has delicate pendants and |
| **cochineal ranch, museum and research | | | | earrings available for sale made out of the |
| station where you'll learn the history and | | | | same cantera stone; |
| importance of this tiny bug which attaches | | | | |
| itself to its host, the nopal cactus, and | | | | OPTION 1: instead of visiting the foregoing |
| when harvested and dried produces the | | | | after Monte Albán we can head in a |
| strongest and most brilliant natural red dye | | | | different direction to visit: |
| known to mankind...used today in dying rugs | | | | |
| from the region and in a diversity of | | | | **the carved wooden animal village at |
| products such as yoghurt, Campbell soup, | | | | Arrazola (similar to San MartÃn Tilcajete |
| campari, as well as makeup and lipsticks | | | | described in ROUTE ONE); |
| (also a video explaining the historical | | | | |
| importance of this Oaxacan industry from | | | | **the church and monastery complex at |
| Conquest times through the mid 19th century, | | | | Cuilapam as described in ROUTE ONE; |
| for North America, Europe and the Far East) | | | | |
| | | | **on Thursdays the marketplace at Zaachila, |
| ROUTE TWO: | | | | where there is also a ruin close to the |
| | | | middle of town, with a tomb; the government |
| *Santa MarÃa del Tule, home to the famous | | | | employee at the ruin will show you photos of |
| 2,000 year old Tule or ahuehuete tree, the | | | | treasures which were removed from the tomb |
| largest tree in the world...beautifully kept | | | | and taken to Mexico City where all but one |
| grounds, with a lovely church alongside the | | | | piece remains locked up in storage...because |
| tree; "hire" a local child to take you on a | | | | of the conflict between the archaeologists |
| tour around the tree, using a mirror to | | | | and the townspeople about what to do with the |
| point out images in the trunk and branches; | | | | tomb's contents, excavation stopped and was |
| | | | never completed. |
| *the 16th century Dominican church at | | | | |
| Tlacochuhuaya noted for its original fresco | | | | OPTION 2: instead of visiting Monte Albán |
| painting on the ceiling and walls by Zapotec | | | | as part of a full day organized tour, arrive |
| artists, the three surrounding courtyard | | | | there on your own by bus or taxi, and spend |
| chapels, its exterior carved figures | | | | the rest of the day back in Oaxaca; you can |
| including the sculpture of Saint Jerome, and | | | | then spend an entire day on this route and |
| the 17th century German organ on the second | | | | add the following, perhaps for those with |
| floor; a sundial still stands outside the | | | | particular fine arts and/or architectural |
| church; | | | | interests: |
| | | | |
| *the rug village of Teotitlan del Valle - | | | | **the combined Oaxaca Paper Factory and |
| visit one or more of the multitude of rug | | | | Center for the Arts housed in a restored 19th |
| workshops where you can select any of a vast | | | | century textile mill makes for a fascinating |
| number of sizes, designs and colors (if you | | | | stop out in the country at the end of a tiny |
| are so inclined) and see how the rugs are | | | | mountaintop town, San AgustÃn Etla; |
| produced from the carding of wool of | | | | regarding the former, founded in 1998 by |
| different colors, followed by its spinning, | | | | Finnish paper makers and Oaxacan artists, it |
| then the use of purely natural dyes of plant, | | | | was conceived as an integrated space to |
| fruit and vegetable sources as well as the | | | | produce hand-made paper with natural fibers |
| cochineal, and finally the hand weaving on | | | | from the region, and promote cultural |
| traditional large looms; learn how to detect | | | | activities in the community; it also involves |
| rugs which are made using synthetic dyes for | | | | a reforestation program and nursery; the |
| coloration; | | | | former is a magnificent multi-level stone |
| | | | building incorporating natural waterfalls and |
| *if you've every been on a California or | | | | poolings of water both outside and in the |
| Niagara wine tour, or traveled to Scotland to | | | | interior of the structure; there is a |
| sample the finest of single malt whiskies, | | | | gallery with installations changing |
| you'll be struck by the contrast in | | | | periodically, printmaking workshop and |
| production techniques used in making Oaxaca's | | | | residences for visiting professors. |
| state drink, mezcal; this lesser known | | | | |
| cousin to tequila is made with a much purer | | | | **artistic hand blown glass has been a |
| and ancient technique using only the agave | | | | tradition in Mexico for generations; a visit |
| plant without any fermenting agents | | | | to Vidrio Artesanal Xa-quixe, located only a |
| whatsoever, a deep in-ground pit for baking | | | | couple of minutes from the workshop of |
| over firewood, crushing by a multi-ton stone | | | | sculptor Adolfo Cruz, truly turns this route, |
| pulled by horse, pine fermentation barrels | | | | with Option 2, into a day in the country |
| and brick oven with a copper serpentine | | | | exploring fine art; The glass workshop |
| still...all natural and aged in oak barrels | | | | produces fine decorative pieces, lamps, |
| up to 8 years, with or without gusano worm, | | | | bottles and more, using 80% recycled glass. |
| or as a sweet liqueur mixed with local exotic | | | | Tour the facility and brouse the offerings. |
| fruits; tastings of all varieties (full day | | | | |
| tours high up into the mountains to see and | | | | IF TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN: |
| sample from a selection of the smallest mom | | | | |
| and pop production facilities are also | | | | While each child and his particular |
| available, with lunch at a quaint roadside | | | | interests, attention span and level of |
| eatery); | | | | patience is different, as a rule we have been |
| | | | extremely successful in designing and |
| *On Sundays, the marketplace at Tlacolula, | | | | recommending routes which address the needs |
| the largest of the regional markets apart | | | | youngsters while at the same time ensuring |
| from the Abastos market in the city of | | | | that parents are able to maximize their |
| Oaxaca; | | | | cultural experiences. Aside from arranging |
| | | | special sessions in the carved animal village |
| *the ruin at Mitla known for the Spanish | | | | to which reference is made above, we have |
| destruction of pre-conquest edifices and the | | | | made arrangements with other village |
| conquerors' use of the stone in the | | | | craftspeople along a couple of the routes |
| construction of the church, the existing | | | | which include enabling children to work with |
| original painted codices on parts of what | | | | and paint clay figures, touch and learn about |
| remains, the intricate stone designs forming | | | | raw wool and how it's transformed into rugs |
| the walls of the ruin buildings with no | | | | and other products, in addition to swim in an |
| mortar used in construction, and the tombs; | | | | environment that's breathtaking for parents, |
| also a large open handicraft marketplace | | | | and even play on a swing set at an open air |
| known for diversity of product and great | | | | restaurant so as to enable mom and dad to |
| prices; | | | | have a relaxing meal. |
| | | | |
| OPTIONAL (as explained regarding ROUTE ONE): | | | | NOTE: For those clients who will be visiting |
| | | | at least one of the ruins with us and who are |
| **Hierve el Agua, the natural bubbling | | | | not staying with us and therefore do not have |
| springs, with two large poolings of water on | | | | the benefit of reviewing the literature about |
| the precipice of a cliff with spectacular | | | | the ruins which we make available to our |
| vistas, suitable for swimming; hike to the | | | | house guests, we provide a complimentary copy |
| large "waterfall" of petrified mineral | | | | of what we consider to be the best book on |
| deposits; | | | | the archaeological sites in the region, |
| | | | OAXACA...THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL RECORD, by |
| **the ruins at Lambityeco, Dainzú and / or | | | | reknowned archaeologist Marcus Winter. This |
| Yagul; Yagul is noted for four things: the | | | | is but one aspect of the value added service |
| largest ballcourt in the region and second | | | | we attempt to provide to all of our clients. |