| TUSCAN WANDERWAYS | | | | the red and white blazes. The path dips |
| FIESOLE - MONTECECERI - SETTIGNANO | | | | down, the ground it rough, but you soon |
| Before setting out, the best way to | | | | come to clearing in the wood where you |
| interpret your wanderway from Fiesole up | | | | take left turning uphill; again we can |
| to Montececeri and over to Settignano, | | | | see the frequent on the trees. Look up |
| is to observe it from afar. Take a bus | | | | to the left, up to the cypress trees on |
| up to Piazzale Michelangelo, one of the | | | | the hilltop to get your bearings. Ten |
| most frequented landmarks of the city. | | | | minutes uphill, keeping the hilltop to |
| From the front balustrade of the | | | | your left, you come to the red-and-white |
| Piazzale, look down over the river Arno | | | | marks on the rock in front of you. |
| to the cupola of the Cathedral, and then | | | | MONTECECERI -------------BORGUNTO |
| directly up to the horizon. Fiesole | | | | MAIANO |
| crowns the hilltop in the distance, and | | | | This time take lefthand path to |
| beside it, to your right, is | | | | Montececeri another quarry on the right |
| Montececeri. It was from this platform | | | | and at the first Y-junction take a few |
| that the "first human flight" was | | | | steps forward, then to the left along a |
| attempted following the drawings of | | | | short path for a striking view from the |
| Leonardo da Vinci. | | | | top of the quarry face over to the |
| Facing the river, walk to the left and | | | | distant hills and down to the valleys. |
| round the balustrade until you come to a | | | | Retrace your steps and follow this path |
| flight of steps leading down to a small | | | | with the red-and-white marks and after |
| piazza. At the end of this area is a | | | | 10 minutes there is an uphill stretch |
| board-map showing the most celebrated | | | | along a wooden handrail and stone steps. |
| buildings of the city. | | | | The path spirals round to the left until |
| BUS TO FIESOLE | | | | you reach Piazzale Leonardo. A few |
| ATAF bus 7, Florence to Fiesole (20 | | | | benches and tables are available for |
| minutes) | | | | rest and picnics. |
| STOPPING AT | | | | The board shows its story. |
| Central Station - Piazza Indipendenza - | | | | This place is dedicated to the memory of |
| Piazza San Marco - Piazza della Libertà | | | | Leonardo da Vinci'sfirst human flight |
| - Piazza delle Cure - Piazza Edison - | | | | experiment. |
| Camerata - San Domenico - Regresso - | | | | An area of strategic position during |
| Piazza Mino da Fiesole. | | | | WORLD WAR II |
| WALK TIME | | | | The translation of stone column reads: |
| 3 hours. Grade: Leisurely. | | | | The great bird will rise to its first |
| FIESOLE | | | | flight over the summit of Ceceri, |
| A century ago, the walk uphill from | | | | filling the universe will awe and |
| Florence to Fiesole was only for the | | | | filling with its fame all writings and |
| energetic; the electric tram was tedious | | | | with eternal glory the nest where it was |
| and long-winded, and downright punishing | | | | born. |
| for the horses dragging their carriages | | | | In Leonardo's own words we read. |
| of goods and passengers. | | | | "The aforesaid bird, aided by the wind, |
| Every Latin historian had something to | | | | shall rise to a great height; and in |
| say about Fiesole. Rambling and strange | | | | this will be its safety. Should any act |
| at times as their stories might seem, | | | | of overturning intervene, it will thus |
| they do contain a grain or two of truth. | | | | have time to regain its equilibrium, |
| Some asserted that it was built by the | | | | when its limbs are of great resistance |
| Tirreni, others by the Pelasgians, or | | | | so that it may withstand the fury and |
| even by the Phoenicians. It was | | | | impetus of a descent with the aforesaid |
| certainly one of the richest and most | | | | precautions and its strongly mounted |
| powerful of the Etruscan cities. | | | | joints and its nerves of strong raw |
| Inevitably, the proud Roman clarion | | | | silk; and with no interference of iron |
| echoed one day along the Arno valley up | | | | parts, as soon these will break under |
| the hillside and the inhabitants of | | | | pressure, or will be subject to wear, |
| Fiesole were either slaughtered or | | | | and therefore we should not employ them. |
| ordered to genuflect before the | | | | Be reminded that the bird shall not |
| invincible Legions. After the fall of | | | | imitate any other than the bat, as the |
| Rome, it was subsequently plundered | | | | membrane affords a structure, that is a |
| several times and lost its peculiar | | | | connection for the structure, the |
| qualities. On the old Etruscan and Roman | | | | mainstays of the wings. |
| ruins and monuments the new town was | | | | Should you imitate the wings of |
| slowly built. | | | | feathered birds, they are of stronger |
| In the immediate post-war years the | | | | bone and nerve to be perforated; that is |
| young flower-girl sat at the corner, | | | | the feathers are disunited and so let |
| aggressive street hawkers strolled the | | | | air pass through. |
| streets with cardboard boxes tied round | | | | But the bat is helped by the membrane, |
| their waists containing their wares, and | | | | which ties all together and is not |
| pitiful beggars, little more than | | | | perforated. |
| road-rats, sold holy pictures with | | | | Leaving the Piazzale, take the wide path |
| potent prayers for a safe wayfaring. | | | | along the garden wall on the left which |
| Poverty was a role to be performed, not | | | | leads downhill for a few minutes to a |
| social offence, so a Tuscan rispetto | | | | mapboard, where you turn left. Pass the |
| sings - | | | | road barrier and soon a small open area |
| I cast a palm-leaf into the sea: | | | | of hard ground comes into view on your |
| The waters devour it. | | | | right with a quaint little church on the |
| I see others cast lead, and - | | | | corner. This is Piazza dei Pini and the |
| | | | parish church of Borgunto, seated like a |
| Lo! For them it sails. | | | | seer in the midst of heathendom, which |
| On the way up today we leave behind the | | | | like so many woodland churches, may have |
| old wayside churches, shrines, crosses, | | | | been built on the very spot set apart |
| great villas once frequented by the | | | | for sacred and solemn rites in honour of |
| Medici, illustrious artists and writers, | | | | some ancient pagan god of the soil. |
| now oppressed by modern hi-tech | | | | Facing the church, look to the wall on |
| buildings in what seems intentional | | | | your left which is marked |
| defacement. | | | | CAI-FIRENZE-ITIN-1 |
| To the footsore pilgrim with sturdy | | | | Settignano |
| pastoral staff and dusty burlap outfit | | | | Compiobbi |
| it was a day's walk to the top, up those | | | | SENTIERO DEGLI DEI |
| exceptionally steep stony paths, still | | | | This is Via Peramonda, perhaps anciently |
| in place, which remind one of far-off | | | | a military road or a trade route. After |
| effort and accomplishment. The wayfarer | | | | a few strides along this road you will |
| has given place to turbo buses pouring | | | | see the entrance to a Fiesole Camping |
| out streams of camera-burdened tourists. | | | | Site on your left. Proceed downhill now. |
| At present, an open square, some narrow | | | | A keen eye can enjoy the views over the |
| streets, pleasing to the attentive eye, | | | | hills with their large farmsteads and |
| and a number of aesthetically attractive | | | | elegant villas which beckon us to |
| buildings form its personal façade. | | | | discover them. |
| Indeed, one can find some cloistered | | | | Turn right when you come to the main |
| nooks with a water-colour artist at work | | | | road about 20 minutes later. Walk on for |
| and a gathering of shadows with a | | | | 200m to the bus area on the right, which |
| writer. A few steps out of town one can | | | | is little more than a clearing at the |
| come across the typical Tuscan farmhouse | | | | roadside. Turn down into the wood from |
| with a vine loosely drooping over the | | | | the top side of this area and follow the |
| doorway. | | | | path running parallel to the main road |
| SANTA MARIA PRIMERANA | | | | to the left above it. This path through |
| The church of Santa Maria Primerana, | | | | the wood will soon meet a narrow road at |
| built on an Etruscan fundament, was | | | | a T-junction where you must turn right. |
| already known in the year 966. Enlarged | | | | Now walk straight on. Do not turn right |
| during the Middle Ages, a new façade | | | | after a few paces towards a barrier |
| was built at the end of the sixteenth | | | | across the track. |
| century. The high alter has a small | | | | Look carefully for the CAI signs on the |
| painting on wood with a Madonna and | | | | tree as you enter this rough stony way, |
| Child by Maestro di Rovezzano. The | | | | suitable for cart-wheels and the cloven |
| transept has two bas-reliefs by | | | | hoof. Walk on, there are tall rushes on |
| Francesco da Sangallo. The glazed | | | | the right, until you come to a once |
| terracotta from the workshop of Andrea | | | | admirable, yet still dominating, wayside |
| della Robbia is admirable. | | | | shrine up on the wall to your left. One |
| On the second Sunday of May, the | | | | of the thousand tumbling wayside shrines |
| Podestà , or Administrator of Justice, | | | | in Tuscany, worthy of a scholar's |
| and the leaders of the population, or | | | | quotation or an artist's affection. The |
| Gonfalonieri, came here to take the oath | | | | face of a young cherubim looks down with |
| of office. The Badia Fiesolana and the | | | | mock humility as if offering a prayer |
| Amphitheatre should be visited. On the | | | | for burdened wayfarers with a long road |
| west hilltop is the Francescan Church | | | | behind, and nowhere to go. |
| and Monastery, where ladies were not | | | | In those days gone by a place of |
| allowed to enter. | | | | worship, rest and refreshment; a meeting |
| CHURCH of SAN LORENZO at VINCIGLIATA | | | | point for trivia where you can still |
| In the 15th century the Alessandri | | | | meet a farmer with a loaf of bread under |
| family, who owned the nearby castle, | | | | his arm, an onion in his hand, and the |
| built a bell tower on which is placed | | | | neck of a small wine bottle peeping out |
| their stone coat-of-arms. The family | | | | of his pocket. |
| enlarged the church at the end of the | | | | Walk past a forlorn-looking farmstead |
| 18th century and its orientation was | | | | further along the road, down along the |
| changed when the façade was built in | | | | cart-track through an olive grove. These |
| place of the apse. Over the window is a | | | | tracks can become muddy after some rain |
| two-headed lamb and on the tower a | | | | and are better suited for cartwheels and |
| curious demon-like blowing two fanfare | | | | the cloven hoof. Until a few years ago |
| trumpets. There is a terracotta bust | | | | one could meet beasts of burden tramping |
| representing San Lorenzo and of a | | | | along here, and those great white oxen, |
| Madonna and Child, attributed to | | | | slow, swaying bodies, already worshipped |
| Rossellino, 12th cent. | | | | two thousand years ago as the |
| CASTLE of VINCIGLIATA | | | | incarnation of the earth-gods: |
| On the outer wall are a number of | | | | And to those also, O Lord, the humble |
| commemorative plaques to eminent | | | | beasts, who with us bear the burden and |
| sojourners, including such names as | | | | heat of the day, and offer their |
| Queen Elizabeth and Beatrice, | | | | guileless lives for the well-being of |
| Battenberg, Hohenlohe, Hohenzollern and | | | | their countries, we supplicate Thy great |
| the Duchess of Russia. | | | | tenderness of heart. |
| The castle was little more than a ruin | | | | When you get to the end of this first |
| when in 1855 John Temple Leader bought | | | | stretch, head towards the wood. Don't |
| it, and much of the land and a large | | | | take the right-hand turn downhill. |
| number of crumbling farmsteads and | | | | The walk through the wood is brief. In |
| churches in the neighbourhood, and set | | | | the morning a dew-laden spider's web |
| himself the gruelling task about | | | | lays itself across your face and a keen |
| restoring all of his property. | | | | eye can find regurgitated owl pellets of |
| BEGINNING YOUR WALK | | | | slimy fur and half-digested bone. at the |
| When you get off the bus in Piazza Mino | | | | end the path comes to another old, |
| da Fiesole look up towards the Town | | | | crestfallen farmhouse with a yard and |
| Hall, the Municipio, at the east end | | | | out-buildings. Walk round it, down |
| above the town car park. Before setting | | | | between rugged dry walls and along a |
| out, stop to observe the remarkable | | | | track covered with Summer dust waiting |
| display of heraldry on the façade | | | | for September winds to make a sally and |
| remembering the Podestà , and visit the | | | | bare its humps again. After 10 minutes |
| church of Santa Maria Primerana. | | | | it leads uphill and on to a narrow |
| Facing the church, take the narrow lane | | | | asphalt road. |
| at the extreme right. This is Via | | | | Turn right, downhill to the roadside |
| Giuseppe Verdi. Look for the sign on the | | | | church of San Lorenzo. Across the valley |
| wall to the right | | | | are the quarries of Maiano where Walkway |
| PASSEGGIATA PANORAMICAwhile on the left | | | | One passes. |
| is a red and white mark indicating | | | | A few minutes down the road is the |
| CAI-ITIN-1 | | | | eye-catching Castle of Vincigliata. On |
| SETTIGNANO 1 h | | | | the high outer walls are stone tablets |
| COMPIOBBI 2.30 h | | | | commemorating the sojourn of names such |
| Our walk now begins. The roads and paths | | | | as Queen Elizabeth and Beatrice, |
| ahead are copiously way-marked with | | | | Battenberg, Hohenlohe and Hohenzollern |
| these red and white CAI blazes. | | | | and the Duchess of Russia. |
| The tight little lane climbs fairly | | | | At the first sweeping bend after the |
| steeply for a few minutes between villas | | | | castle, take the track on the left |
| and houses of refined composition and | | | | through the olive groves. There is |
| artistry until it levels out at the top. | | | | comfort and security in long, straight |
| Don't be too ambitious. Enjoy a relaxing | | | | paths. Life flows smoothly on. But the |
| leisurely pace. On the right is dramatic | | | | Genius Loci appears from behind sudden |
| view over Florence and the background | | | | dips and bends and lives under the |
| towards the Chianti hills - a sight to | | | | uncontaminated blank spaces on the |
| slake the thirst of any romantic soul. | | | | wayfarers map. |
| From this point the city is best seen at | | | | Walk slightly uphill to the large |
| dawn or in the evening when the sun is | | | | renovated building on the right with its |
| low and the background hills present a | | | | chapel standing on the ground opposite. |
| sharp edge against the western sky. | | | | The view from here over the olive groves |
| Walk forward keeping to the left. Do not | | | | and cypress trees towards Florence in |
| take Via Doccia which dips down to the | | | | the background must surely be one of the |
| right. You are now in Via Montececeri. | | | | deepest emotional admiration. |
| Up on the right-hand wall of the corner | | | | Not far along the track we come to a |
| house is a sign | | | | house on the corner of a junction. This |
| FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT lived here 1910 | | | | is Casa al Vento. Look for the large |
| After 150m the road levels out again for | | | | cypress tree on the right. Walk round |
| a second view across the valley as far | | | | the house and take the rough stony road |
| as the eye can see. Via Montececeri ends | | | | to the left. Do not be tempted to take |
| after a minute and at the branch take | | | | the path to the left before the house |
| the road downhill to the right, Via | | | | (Trail 2) or the track from the house |
| degli Scalpellini. Look for the red and | | | | leading straight on past the small ruin |
| white CAI mark. A few paces forward will | | | | in the field on the left. Walk slowly |
| take you to Via del Pelagaccio which | | | | downhill. This path is rough and dusty |
| veers sharply uphill to the left. Do not | | | | in dry weather, and slippery after rain. |
| take this road. Walk forward along the | | | | There are olive trees on the right, |
| straight gravel footpath leading towards | | | | cypresses up to the left, and further up |
| the wood. After 200m you come to a board | | | | heather taller than a man and plants |
| on the right showing a map of the park. | | | | showing a struggle to survive. After 20 |
| The path now takes you through the wood. | | | | minutes you come to Via del Fossataccio. |
| Swing uphill to the left at the first | | | | On the left is a house with a shrine up |
| Y-junction, always bearing in mind to | | | | on the wall. The inscription reads |
| follow the red and white CAI blazes on | | | | MONSTRA TE ESSE MATREM. |
| the trees or rocks, disregarding the | | | | Note the marks on the wall to the right. |
| blue-red marks. Turn right after 5om. It | | | | Walk straight forward along Via |
| takes about 10 minutes to reach a | | | | Desiderio da Settignano, past the |
| handrail on the right and wooden bench | | | | cemetery on the right, uphill a little |
| on the left. An excellent view over the | | | | between the first houses of the town to |
| Arno valley. The Florence soccer stadium | | | | the junction with Via S. Romano. Turn |
| is straight down in front in the | | | | right and proceed down to the Piazza. |
| foreground and the Cathedral and Palazzo | | | | Look at the curious façade of the |
| Vecchio are just over to the right. | | | | Società Corale, a building on the |
| Downhill again, you come to the first | | | | right just after the very narrow part of |
| stone quarry on the left. A dark | | | | the street. |
| sinister hole in the hillside, worthy of | | | | â¦even I feel in me to have suckled |
| a short visit. These quarries were still | | | | in with milk the love for sculpture in |
| used until the 50's. At the nearby | | | | Settignano where I was raised, and where |
| 3-pronged junction, take the middle path | | | | part of the inhabitants are |
| on the same level that swings to the | | | | sculptors⦠Michelangelo. |
| left. | | | | Bus number 10 from the piazza takes |
| Do not walk uphill to the left or take | | | | thirty minutes back down to Florence. |
| the right downhill path. Keep following | | | | |