| TUSCAN WANDERWAYS | | | | downhill path. Keep following the red and white |
| FIESOLE - MONTECECERI - SETTIGNANO | | | | blazes. The path dips down, the ground it rough, |
| Before setting out, the best way to interpret | | | | but you soon come to clearing in the wood where |
| your wanderway from Fiesole up to Montececeri | | | | you take left turning uphill; again we can see the |
| and over to Settignano, is to observe it from | | | | frequent on the trees. Look up to the left, up to |
| afar. Take a bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo, one | | | | the cypress trees on the hilltop to get your |
| of the most frequented landmarks of the city. | | | | bearings. Ten minutes uphill, keeping the hilltop to |
| From the front balustrade of the Piazzale, look | | | | your left, you come to the red-and-white marks |
| down over the river Arno to the cupola of the | | | | on the rock in front of you. |
| Cathedral, and then directly up to the horizon. | | | | MONTECECERI -------------BORGUNTO |
| Fiesole crowns the hilltop in the distance, and | | | | MAIANO |
| beside it, to your right, is Montececeri. It was | | | | This time take lefthand path to Montececeri |
| from this platform that the "first human flight" | | | | another quarry on the right and at the first |
| was attempted following the drawings of | | | | Y-junction take a few steps forward, then to the |
| Leonardo da Vinci. | | | | left along a short path for a striking view from |
| Facing the river, walk to the left and round the | | | | the top of the quarry face over to the distant |
| balustrade until you come to a flight of steps | | | | hills and down to the valleys. |
| leading down to a small piazza. At the end of this | | | | Retrace your steps and follow this path with the |
| area is a board-map showing the most celebrated | | | | red-and-white marks and after 10 minutes there |
| buildings of the city. | | | | is an uphill stretch along a wooden handrail and |
| BUS TO FIESOLE | | | | stone steps. The path spirals round to the left |
| ATAF bus 7, Florence to Fiesole (20 minutes) | | | | until you reach Piazzale Leonardo. A few benches |
| STOPPING AT | | | | and tables are available for rest and picnics. |
| Central Station - Piazza Indipendenza - Piazza San | | | | The board shows its story. |
| Marco - Piazza della Libertà - Piazza delle | | | | This place is dedicated to the memory of |
| Cure - Piazza Edison - Camerata - San Domenico | | | | Leonardo da Vinci'sfirst human flight experiment. |
| - Regresso - Piazza Mino da Fiesole. | | | | An area of strategic position during WORLD WAR |
| WALK TIME | | | | II |
| 3 hours. Grade: Leisurely. | | | | The translation of stone column reads: |
| FIESOLE | | | | The great bird will rise to its first flight over the |
| A century ago, the walk uphill from Florence to | | | | summit of Ceceri, filling the universe will awe and |
| Fiesole was only for the energetic; the electric | | | | filling with its fame all writings and with eternal |
| tram was tedious and long-winded, and downright | | | | glory the nest where it was born. |
| punishing for the horses dragging their carriages | | | | In Leonardo's own words we read. |
| of goods and passengers. | | | | "The aforesaid bird, aided by the wind, shall rise to |
| Every Latin historian had something to say about | | | | a great height; and in this will be its safety. Should |
| Fiesole. Rambling and strange at times as their | | | | any act of overturning intervene, it will thus have |
| stories might seem, they do contain a grain or | | | | time to regain its equilibrium, when its limbs are of |
| two of truth. Some asserted that it was built by | | | | great resistance so that it may withstand the |
| the Tirreni, others by the Pelasgians, or even by | | | | fury and impetus of a descent with the aforesaid |
| the Phoenicians. It was certainly one of the richest | | | | precautions and its strongly mounted joints and its |
| and most powerful of the Etruscan cities. | | | | nerves of strong raw silk; and with no |
| Inevitably, the proud Roman clarion echoed one | | | | interference of iron parts, as soon these will |
| day along the Arno valley up the hillside and the | | | | break under pressure, or will be subject to wear, |
| inhabitants of Fiesole were either slaughtered or | | | | and therefore we should not employ them. |
| ordered to genuflect before the invincible Legions. | | | | Be reminded that the bird shall not imitate any |
| After the fall of Rome, it was subsequently | | | | other than the bat, as the membrane affords a |
| plundered several times and lost its peculiar | | | | structure, that is a connection for the structure, |
| qualities. On the old Etruscan and Roman ruins and | | | | the mainstays of the wings. |
| monuments the new town was slowly built. | | | | Should you imitate the wings of feathered birds, |
| In the immediate post-war years the young | | | | they are of stronger bone and nerve to be |
| flower-girl sat at the corner, aggressive street | | | | perforated; that is the feathers are disunited and |
| hawkers strolled the streets with cardboard | | | | so let air pass through. |
| boxes tied round their waists containing their | | | | But the bat is helped by the membrane, which |
| wares, and pitiful beggars, little more than | | | | ties all together and is not perforated. |
| road-rats, sold holy pictures with potent prayers | | | | Leaving the Piazzale, take the wide path along the |
| for a safe wayfaring. Poverty was a role to be | | | | garden wall on the left which leads downhill for a |
| performed, not social offence, so a Tuscan | | | | few minutes to a mapboard, where you turn left. |
| rispetto sings - | | | | Pass the road barrier and soon a small open area |
| I cast a palm-leaf into the sea: | | | | of hard ground comes into view on your right |
| The waters devour it. | | | | with a quaint little church on the corner. This is |
| I see others cast lead, and - Lo! For them it sails. | | | | Piazza dei Pini and the parish church of Borgunto, |
| On the way up today we leave behind the old | | | | seated like a seer in the midst of heathendom, |
| wayside churches, shrines, crosses, great villas | | | | which like so many woodland churches, may have |
| once frequented by the Medici, illustrious artists | | | | been built on the very spot set apart for sacred |
| and writers, now oppressed by modern hi-tech | | | | and solemn rites in honour of some ancient pagan |
| buildings in what seems intentional defacement. | | | | god of the soil. |
| To the footsore pilgrim with sturdy pastoral staff | | | | Facing the church, look to the wall on your left |
| and dusty burlap outfit it was a day's walk to the | | | | which is marked |
| top, up those exceptionally steep stony paths, still | | | | CAI-FIRENZE-ITIN-1 |
| in place, which remind one of far-off effort and | | | | Settignano |
| accomplishment. The wayfarer has given place to | | | | Compiobbi |
| turbo buses pouring out streams of | | | | SENTIERO DEGLI DEI |
| camera-burdened tourists. | | | | This is Via Peramonda, perhaps anciently a military |
| At present, an open square, some narrow | | | | road or a trade route. After a few strides along |
| streets, pleasing to the attentive eye, and a | | | | this road you will see the entrance to a Fiesole |
| number of aesthetically attractive buildings form | | | | Camping Site on your left. Proceed downhill now. |
| its personal façade. Indeed, one can | | | | A keen eye can enjoy the views over the hills |
| find some cloistered nooks with a water-colour | | | | with their large farmsteads and elegant villas |
| artist at work and a gathering of shadows with a | | | | which beckon us to discover them. |
| writer. A few steps out of town one can come | | | | Turn right when you come to the main road |
| across the typical Tuscan farmhouse with a vine | | | | about 20 minutes later. Walk on for 200m to the |
| loosely drooping over the doorway. | | | | bus area on the right, which is little more than a |
| SANTA MARIA PRIMERANA | | | | clearing at the roadside. Turn down into the wood |
| The church of Santa Maria Primerana, built on an | | | | from the top side of this area and follow the path |
| Etruscan fundament, was already known in the | | | | running parallel to the main road to the left above |
| year 966. Enlarged during the Middle Ages, a new | | | | it. This path through the wood will soon meet a |
| façade was built at the end of the | | | | narrow road at a T-junction where you must turn |
| sixteenth century. The high alter has a small | | | | right. Now walk straight on. Do not turn right after |
| painting on wood with a Madonna and Child by | | | | a few paces towards a barrier across the track. |
| Maestro di Rovezzano. The transept has two | | | | Look carefully for the CAI signs on the tree as |
| bas-reliefs by Francesco da Sangallo. The glazed | | | | you enter this rough stony way, suitable for |
| terracotta from the workshop of Andrea della | | | | cart-wheels and the cloven hoof. Walk on, there |
| Robbia is admirable. | | | | are tall rushes on the right, until you come to a |
| On the second Sunday of May, the | | | | once admirable, yet still dominating, wayside shrine |
| Podestà , or Administrator of Justice, and | | | | up on the wall to your left. One of the thousand |
| the leaders of the population, or Gonfalonieri, | | | | tumbling wayside shrines in Tuscany, worthy of a |
| came here to take the oath of office. The Badia | | | | scholar's quotation or an artist's affection. The |
| Fiesolana and the Amphitheatre should be visited. | | | | face of a young cherubim looks down with mock |
| On the west hilltop is the Francescan Church and | | | | humility as if offering a prayer for burdened |
| Monastery, where ladies were not allowed to | | | | wayfarers with a long road behind, and nowhere |
| enter. | | | | to go. |
| CHURCH of SAN LORENZO at VINCIGLIATA | | | | In those days gone by a place of worship, rest |
| In the 15th century the Alessandri family, who | | | | and refreshment; a meeting point for trivia where |
| owned the nearby castle, built a bell tower on | | | | you can still meet a farmer with a loaf of bread |
| which is placed their stone coat-of-arms. The | | | | under his arm, an onion in his hand, and the neck |
| family enlarged the church at the end of the 18th | | | | of a small wine bottle peeping out of his pocket. |
| century and its orientation was changed when the | | | | Walk past a forlorn-looking farmstead further |
| façade was built in place of the apse. | | | | along the road, down along the cart-track through |
| Over the window is a two-headed lamb and on | | | | an olive grove. These tracks can become muddy |
| the tower a curious demon-like blowing two | | | | after some rain and are better suited for |
| fanfare trumpets. There is a terracotta bust | | | | cartwheels and the cloven hoof. Until a few years |
| representing San Lorenzo and of a Madonna and | | | | ago one could meet beasts of burden tramping |
| Child, attributed to Rossellino, 12th cent. | | | | along here, and those great white oxen, slow, |
| CASTLE of VINCIGLIATA | | | | swaying bodies, already worshipped two thousand |
| On the outer wall are a number of | | | | years ago as the incarnation of the earth-gods: |
| commemorative plaques to eminent sojourners, | | | | And to those also, O Lord, the humble beasts, |
| including such names as Queen Elizabeth and | | | | who with us bear the burden and heat of the |
| Beatrice, Battenberg, Hohenlohe, Hohenzollern and | | | | day, and offer their guileless lives for the |
| the Duchess of Russia. | | | | well-being of their countries, we supplicate Thy |
| The castle was little more than a ruin when in | | | | great tenderness of heart. |
| 1855 John Temple Leader bought it, and much of | | | | When you get to the end of this first stretch, |
| the land and a large number of crumbling | | | | head towards the wood. Don't take the right-hand |
| farmsteads and churches in the neighbourhood, | | | | turn downhill. |
| and set himself the gruelling task about restoring | | | | The walk through the wood is brief. In the |
| all of his property. | | | | morning a dew-laden spider's web lays itself |
| BEGINNING YOUR WALK | | | | across your face and a keen eye can find |
| When you get off the bus in Piazza Mino da | | | | regurgitated owl pellets of slimy fur and |
| Fiesole look up towards the Town Hall, the | | | | half-digested bone. at the end the path comes to |
| Municipio, at the east end above the town car | | | | another old, crestfallen farmhouse with a yard and |
| park. Before setting out, stop to observe the | | | | out-buildings. Walk round it, down between rugged |
| remarkable display of heraldry on the | | | | dry walls and along a track covered with Summer |
| façade remembering the | | | | dust waiting for September winds to make a sally |
| Podestà , and visit the church of Santa | | | | and bare its humps again. After 10 minutes it |
| Maria Primerana. | | | | leads uphill and on to a narrow asphalt road. |
| Facing the church, take the narrow lane at the | | | | Turn right, downhill to the roadside church of San |
| extreme right. This is Via Giuseppe Verdi. Look | | | | Lorenzo. Across the valley are the quarries of |
| for the sign on the wall to the right | | | | Maiano where Walkway One passes. |
| PASSEGGIATA PANORAMICAwhile on the left is | | | | A few minutes down the road is the eye-catching |
| a red and white mark indicating | | | | Castle of Vincigliata. On the high outer walls are |
| CAI-ITIN-1 | | | | stone tablets commemorating the sojourn of |
| SETTIGNANO 1 h | | | | names such as Queen Elizabeth and Beatrice, |
| COMPIOBBI 2.30 h | | | | Battenberg, Hohenlohe and Hohenzollern and the |
| Our walk now begins. The roads and paths ahead | | | | Duchess of Russia. |
| are copiously way-marked with these red and | | | | At the first sweeping bend after the castle, take |
| white CAI blazes. | | | | the track on the left through the olive groves. |
| The tight little lane climbs fairly steeply for a few | | | | There is comfort and security in long, straight |
| minutes between villas and houses of refined | | | | paths. Life flows smoothly on. But the Genius Loci |
| composition and artistry until it levels out at the | | | | appears from behind sudden dips and bends and |
| top. Don't be too ambitious. Enjoy a relaxing | | | | lives under the uncontaminated blank spaces on |
| leisurely pace. On the right is dramatic view over | | | | the wayfarers map. |
| Florence and the background towards the Chianti | | | | Walk slightly uphill to the large renovated building |
| hills - a sight to slake the thirst of any romantic | | | | on the right with its chapel standing on the ground |
| soul. From this point the city is best seen at dawn | | | | opposite. The view from here over the olive |
| or in the evening when the sun is low and the | | | | groves and cypress trees towards Florence in the |
| background hills present a sharp edge against the | | | | background must surely be one of the deepest |
| western sky. | | | | emotional admiration. |
| Walk forward keeping to the left. Do not take Via | | | | Not far along the track we come to a house on |
| Doccia which dips down to the right. You are now | | | | the corner of a junction. This is Casa al Vento. |
| in Via Montececeri. Up on the right-hand wall of | | | | Look for the large cypress tree on the right. Walk |
| the corner house is a sign | | | | round the house and take the rough stony road |
| FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT lived here 1910 | | | | to the left. Do not be tempted to take the path |
| After 150m the road levels out again for a | | | | to the left before the house (Trail 2) or the track |
| second view across the valley as far as the eye | | | | from the house leading straight on past the small |
| can see. Via Montececeri ends after a minute and | | | | ruin in the field on the left. Walk slowly downhill. |
| at the branch take the road downhill to the right, | | | | This path is rough and dusty in dry weather, and |
| Via degli Scalpellini. Look for the red and white CAI | | | | slippery after rain. There are olive trees on the |
| mark. A few paces forward will take you to Via | | | | right, cypresses up to the left, and further up |
| del Pelagaccio which veers sharply uphill to the left. | | | | heather taller than a man and plants showing a |
| Do not take this road. Walk forward along the | | | | struggle to survive. After 20 minutes you come |
| straight gravel footpath leading towards the wood. | | | | to Via del Fossataccio. On the left is a house with |
| After 200m you come to a board on the right | | | | a shrine up on the wall. The inscription reads |
| showing a map of the park. The path now takes | | | | MONSTRA TE ESSE MATREM. |
| you through the wood. Swing uphill to the left at | | | | Note the marks on the wall to the right. Walk |
| the first Y-junction, always bearing in mind to | | | | straight forward along Via Desiderio da Settignano, |
| follow the red and white CAI blazes on the trees | | | | past the cemetery on the right, uphill a little |
| or rocks, disregarding the blue-red marks. Turn | | | | between the first houses of the town to the |
| right after 5om. It takes about 10 minutes to | | | | junction with Via S. Romano. Turn right and |
| reach a handrail on the right and wooden bench | | | | proceed down to the Piazza. Look at the curious |
| on the left. An excellent view over the Arno | | | | façade of the Società Corale, |
| valley. The Florence soccer stadium is straight | | | | a building on the right just after the very narrow |
| down in front in the foreground and the Cathedral | | | | part of the street. |
| and Palazzo Vecchio are just over to the right. | | | | …even I feel in me to have |
| Downhill again, you come to the first stone quarry | | | | suckled in with milk the love for sculpture in |
| on the left. A dark sinister hole in the hillside, | | | | Settignano where I was raised, and where part of |
| worthy of a short visit. These quarries were still | | | | the inhabitants are sculptors… |
| used until the 50's. At the nearby 3-pronged | | | | Michelangelo. |
| junction, take the middle path on the same level | | | | Bus number 10 from the piazza takes thirty |
| that swings to the left. | | | | minutes back down to Florence. |
| Do not walk uphill to the left or take the right | | | | |