Tuscan Wanderways - Walking in and Around Florence

TUSCAN WANDERWAYS				Do not walk uphill to the left or take the
				right downhill path. Keep following the red
FIESOLE - MONTECECERI - SETTIGNANO				and white blazes. The path dips down, the
				ground it rough, but you soon come to
Before setting out, the best way to interpret				clearing in the wood where you take left
your wanderway from Fiesole up to Montececeri				turning uphill; again we can see the frequent
and over to Settignano, is to observe it from				on the trees. Look up to the left, up to the
afar. Take a bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo,				cypress trees on the hilltop to get your
one of the most frequented landmarks of the				bearings. Ten minutes uphill, keeping the
city. From the front balustrade of the				hilltop to your left, you come to the
Piazzale, look down over the river Arno to				red-and-white marks on the rock in front of
the cupola of the Cathedral, and then				you.
directly up to the horizon. Fiesole crowns
the hilltop in the distance, and beside it,				MONTECECERI -------------BORGUNTO
to your right, is Montececeri. It was from
this platform that the "first human flight"				MAIANO
was attempted following the drawings of
Leonardo da Vinci.				This time take lefthand path to Montececeri
				another quarry on the right and at the first
Facing the river, walk to the left and round				Y-junction take a few steps forward, then to
the balustrade until you come to a flight of				the left along a short path for a striking
steps leading down to a small piazza. At the				view from the top of the quarry face over to
end of this area is a board-map showing the				the distant hills and down to the valleys.
most celebrated buildings of the city.
				Retrace your steps and follow this path with
BUS TO FIESOLE				the red-and-white marks and after 10 minutes
				there is an uphill stretch along a wooden
ATAF bus 7, Florence to Fiesole (20 minutes)				handrail and stone steps. The path spirals
				round to the left until you reach Piazzale
STOPPING AT				Leonardo. A few benches and tables are
				available for rest and picnics.
Central Station - Piazza Indipendenza -
Piazza San Marco - Piazza della LibertÃƒ -				The board shows its story.
Piazza delle Cure - Piazza Edison - Camerata
- San Domenico - Regresso - Piazza Mino da				This place is dedicated to the memory of
Fiesole.				Leonardo da Vinci'sfirst human flight
				experiment.
WALK TIME
				An area of strategic position during WORLD
3 hours. Grade: Leisurely.				WAR II

FIESOLE				The translation of stone column reads:

A century ago, the walk uphill from Florence				The great bird will rise to its first flight
to Fiesole was only for the energetic; the				over the summit of Ceceri, filling the
electric tram was tedious and long-winded,				universe will awe and filling with its fame
and downright punishing for the horses				all writings and with eternal glory the nest
dragging their carriages of goods and				where it was born.
passengers.
				In Leonardo's own words we read.
Every Latin historian had something to say
about Fiesole. Rambling and strange at times				"The aforesaid bird, aided by the wind, shall
as their stories might seem, they do contain				rise to a great height; and in this will be
a grain or two of truth. Some asserted that				its safety. Should any act of overturning
it was built by the Tirreni, others by the				intervene, it will thus have time to regain
Pelasgians, or even by the Phoenicians. It				its equilibrium, when its limbs are of great
was certainly one of the richest and most				resistance so that it may withstand the fury
powerful of the Etruscan cities. Inevitably,				and impetus of a descent with the aforesaid
the proud Roman clarion echoed one day along				precautions and its strongly mounted joints
the Arno valley up the hillside and the				and its nerves of strong raw silk; and with
inhabitants of Fiesole were either				no interference of iron parts, as soon these
slaughtered or ordered to genuflect before				will break under pressure, or will be subject
the invincible Legions. After the fall of				to wear, and therefore we should not employ
Rome, it was subsequently plundered several				them.
times and lost its peculiar qualities. On the
old Etruscan and Roman ruins and monuments				Be reminded that the bird shall not imitate
the new town was slowly built.				any other than the bat, as the membrane
				affords a structure, that is a connection for
In the immediate post-war years the young				the structure, the mainstays of the wings.
flower-girl sat at the corner, aggressive
street hawkers strolled the streets with				Should you imitate the wings of feathered
cardboard boxes tied round their waists				birds, they are of stronger bone and nerve to
containing their wares, and pitiful beggars,				be perforated; that is the feathers are
little more than road-rats, sold holy				disunited and so let air pass through.
pictures with potent prayers for a safe
wayfaring. Poverty was a role to be				But the bat is helped by the membrane, which
performed, not social offence, so a Tuscan				ties all together and is not perforated.
rispetto sings -
				Leaving the Piazzale, take the wide path
I cast a palm-leaf into the sea:				along the garden wall on the left which leads
				downhill for a few minutes to a mapboard,
The waters devour it.				where you turn left. Pass the road barrier
				and soon a small open area of hard ground
I see others cast lead, and -				comes into view on your right with a quaint
Lo!				little church on the corner. This is Piazza
For them it sails.				dei Pini and the parish church of Borgunto,
				seated like a seer in the midst of
On the way up today we leave behind the old				heathendom, which like so many woodland
wayside churches, shrines, crosses, great				churches, may have been built on the very
villas once frequented by the Medici,				spot set apart for sacred and solemn rites in
illustrious artists and writers, now				honour of some ancient pagan god of the soil.
oppressed by modern hi-tech buildings in what
seems intentional defacement.				Facing the church, look to the wall on your
				left which is marked
To the footsore pilgrim with sturdy pastoral
staff and dusty burlap outfit it was a day's				CAI-FIRENZE-ITIN-1
walk to the top, up those exceptionally steep
stony paths, still in place, which remind one				Settignano
of far-off effort and accomplishment. The
wayfarer has given place to turbo buses				Compiobbi
pouring out streams of camera-burdened
tourists.				SENTIERO DEGLI DEI

At present, an open square, some narrow				This is Via Peramonda, perhaps anciently a
streets, pleasing to the attentive eye, and a				military road or a trade route. After a few
number of aesthetically attractive buildings				strides along this road you will see the
form its personal faÃƒÂ§ade. Indeed, one				entrance to a Fiesole Camping Site on your
can find some cloistered nooks with a				left. Proceed downhill now. A keen eye can
water-colour artist at work and a gathering				enjoy the views over the hills with their
of shadows with a writer. A few steps out of				large farmsteads and elegant villas which
town one can come across the typical Tuscan				beckon us to discover them.
farmhouse with a vine loosely drooping over
the doorway.				Turn right when you come to the main road
				about 20 minutes later. Walk on for 200m to
SANTA MARIA PRIMERANA				the bus area on the right, which is little
				more than a clearing at the roadside. Turn
The church of Santa Maria Primerana, built on				down into the wood from the top side of this
an Etruscan fundament, was already known in				area and follow the path running parallel to
the year 966. Enlarged during the Middle				the main road to the left above it. This path
Ages, a new faÃƒÂ§ade was built at the				through the wood will soon meet a narrow road
end of the sixteenth century. The high alter				at a T-junction where you must turn right.
has a small painting on wood with a Madonna				Now walk straight on. Do not turn right after
and Child by Maestro di Rovezzano. The				a few paces towards a barrier across the
transept has two bas-reliefs by Francesco da				track.
Sangallo. The glazed terracotta from the
workshop of Andrea della Robbia is admirable.				Look carefully for the CAI signs on the tree
				as you enter this rough stony way, suitable
On the second Sunday of May, the PodestÃƒ ,				for cart-wheels and the cloven hoof. Walk on,
or Administrator of Justice, and the leaders				there are tall rushes on the right, until you
of the population, or Gonfalonieri, came here				come to a once admirable, yet still
to take the oath of office. The Badia				dominating, wayside shrine up on the wall to
Fiesolana and the Amphitheatre should be				your left. One of the thousand tumbling
visited. On the west hilltop is the				wayside shrines in Tuscany, worthy of a
Francescan Church and Monastery, where ladies				scholar's quotation or an artist's affection.
were not allowed to enter.				The face of a young cherubim looks down with
				mock humility as if offering a prayer for
CHURCH of SAN LORENZO at VINCIGLIATA				burdened wayfarers with a long road behind,
				and nowhere to go.
In the 15th century the Alessandri family,
who owned the nearby castle, built a bell				In those days gone by a place of worship,
tower on which is placed their stone				rest and refreshment; a meeting point for
coat-of-arms. The family enlarged the church				trivia where you can still meet a farmer with
at the end of the 18th century and its				a loaf of bread under his arm, an onion in
orientation was changed when the				his hand, and the neck of a small wine bottle
faÃƒÂ§ade was built in place of the apse.				peeping out of his pocket.
Over the window is a two-headed lamb and on
the tower a curious demon-like blowing two				Walk past a forlorn-looking farmstead further
fanfare trumpets. There is a terracotta bust				along the road, down along the cart-track
representing San Lorenzo and of a Madonna and				through an olive grove. These tracks can
Child, attributed to Rossellino, 12th cent.				become muddy after some rain and are better
				suited for cartwheels and the cloven hoof.
CASTLE of VINCIGLIATA				Until a few years ago one could meet beasts
				of burden tramping along here, and those
On the outer wall are a number of				great white oxen, slow, swaying bodies,
commemorative plaques to eminent sojourners,				already worshipped two thousand years ago as
including such names as Queen Elizabeth and				the incarnation of the earth-gods:
Beatrice, Battenberg, Hohenlohe, Hohenzollern
and the Duchess of Russia.				And to those also, O Lord, the humble beasts,
				who with us bear the burden and heat of the
The castle was little more than a ruin when				day, and offer their guileless lives for the
in 1855 John Temple Leader bought it, and				well-being of their countries, we supplicate
much of the land and a large number of				Thy great tenderness of heart.
crumbling farmsteads and churches in the
neighbourhood, and set himself the gruelling				When you get to the end of this first
task about restoring all of his property.				stretch, head towards the wood. Don't take
				the right-hand turn downhill.
BEGINNING YOUR WALK
				The walk through the wood is brief. In the
When you get off the bus in Piazza Mino da				morning a dew-laden spider's web lays itself
Fiesole look up towards the Town Hall, the				across your face and a keen eye can find
Municipio, at the east end above the town car				regurgitated owl pellets of slimy fur and
park. Before setting out, stop to observe the				half-digested bone. at the end the path comes
remarkable display of heraldry on the				to another old, crestfallen farmhouse with a
faÃƒÂ§ade remembering the PodestÃƒ ,				yard and out-buildings. Walk round it, down
and visit the church of Santa Maria				between rugged dry walls and along a track
Primerana.				covered with Summer dust waiting for
				September winds to make a sally and bare its
Facing the church, take the narrow lane at				humps again. After 10 minutes it leads uphill
the extreme right. This is Via Giuseppe				and on to a narrow asphalt road.
Verdi. Look for the sign on the wall to the
right				Turn right, downhill to the roadside church
				of San Lorenzo. Across the valley are the
PASSEGGIATA PANORAMICAwhile on the left is a				quarries of Maiano where Walkway One passes.
red and white mark indicating
				A few minutes down the road is the
CAI-ITIN-1				eye-catching Castle of Vincigliata. On the
				high outer walls are stone tablets
SETTIGNANO 1 h				commemorating the sojourn of names such as
				Queen Elizabeth and Beatrice, Battenberg,
COMPIOBBI 2.30 h				Hohenlohe and Hohenzollern and the Duchess of
				Russia.
Our walk now begins. The roads and paths
ahead are copiously way-marked with these red				At the first sweeping bend after the castle,
and white CAI blazes.				take the track on the left through the olive
				groves. There is comfort and security in
The tight little lane climbs fairly steeply				long, straight paths. Life flows smoothly on.
for a few minutes between villas and houses				But the Genius Loci appears from behind
of refined composition and artistry until it				sudden dips and bends and lives under the
levels out at the top. Don't be too				uncontaminated blank spaces on the wayfarers
ambitious. Enjoy a relaxing leisurely pace.				map.
On the right is dramatic view over Florence
and the background towards the Chianti hills				Walk slightly uphill to the large renovated
- a sight to slake the thirst of any romantic				building on the right with its chapel
soul. From this point the city is best seen				standing on the ground opposite. The view
at dawn or in the evening when the sun is low				from here over the olive groves and cypress
and the background hills present a sharp edge				trees towards Florence in the background must
against the western sky.				surely be one of the deepest emotional
				admiration.
Walk forward keeping to the left. Do not take
Via Doccia which dips down to the right. You				Not far along the track we come to a house on
are now in Via Montececeri. Up on the				the corner of a junction. This is Casa al
right-hand wall of the corner house is a sign				Vento. Look for the large cypress tree on the
				right. Walk round the house and take the
FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT lived here 1910				rough stony road to the left. Do not be
				tempted to take the path to the left before
After 150m the road levels out again for a				the house (Trail 2) or the track from the
second view across the valley as far as the				house leading straight on past the small ruin
eye can see. Via Montececeri ends after a				in the field on the left. Walk slowly
minute and at the branch take the road				downhill. This path is rough and dusty in dry
downhill to the right, Via degli Scalpellini.				weather, and slippery after rain. There are
Look for the red and white CAI mark. A few				olive trees on the right, cypresses up to the
paces forward will take you to Via del				left, and further up heather taller than a
Pelagaccio which veers sharply uphill to the				man and plants showing a struggle to survive.
left. Do not take this road. Walk forward				After 20 minutes you come to Via del
along the straight gravel footpath leading				Fossataccio. On the left is a house with a
towards the wood. After 200m you come to a				shrine up on the wall. The inscription reads
board on the right showing a map of the park.
The path now takes you through the wood.				MONSTRA TE ESSE MATREM.
Swing uphill to the left at the first
Y-junction, always bearing in mind to follow				Note the marks on the wall to the right. Walk
the red and white CAI blazes on the trees or				straight forward along Via Desiderio da
rocks, disregarding the blue-red marks. Turn				Settignano, past the cemetery on the right,
right after 5om. It takes about 10 minutes to				uphill a little between the first houses of
reach a handrail on the right and wooden				the town to the junction with Via S. Romano.
bench on the left. An excellent view over the				Turn right and proceed down to the Piazza.
Arno valley. The Florence soccer stadium is				Look at the curious faÃƒÂ§ade of the
straight down in front in the foreground and				SocietÃƒ Corale, a building on the right
the Cathedral and Palazzo Vecchio are just				just after the very narrow part of the
over to the right.				street.

Downhill again, you come to the first stone				Ã¢Â€Â¦even I feel in me to have
quarry on the left. A dark sinister hole in				suckled in with milk the love for sculpture
the hillside, worthy of a short visit. These				in Settignano where I was raised, and where
quarries were still used until the 50's. At				part of the inhabitants are
the nearby 3-pronged junction, take the				sculptorsÃ¢Â€Â¦ Michelangelo.
middle path on the same level that swings to
the left.				Bus number 10 from the piazza takes thirty
				minutes back down to Florence.

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Tuscan Wanderways - Walking in and Around Florence