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Tuscan Wanderways - Walking in and Around Florence

TUSCAN  WANDERWAYSDo not walk uphill to the left or take the
right downhill path. Keep following the red
FIESOLE  -  MONTECECERI  -  SETTIGNANOand white blazes. The path dips down, the
ground it rough, but you soon come to
Before setting out, the best way to interpretclearing in the wood where you take left
your wanderway from Fiesole up to Montececeriturning uphill; again we can see the frequent
and over to Settignano, is to observe it fromon the trees. Look up to the left, up to the
afar. Take a bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo,cypress trees on the hilltop to get your
one of the most frequented landmarks of thebearings. Ten minutes uphill, keeping the
city. From the front balustrade of thehilltop to your left, you come to the
Piazzale, look down over the river Arno tored-and-white marks on the rock in front of
the cupola of the Cathedral, and thenyou.
directly up to the horizon. Fiesole crowns
the hilltop in the distance, and beside it,MONTECECERI  -------------BORGUNTO
to your right, is Montececeri. It was from
this platform that the "first human flight"MAIANO
was attempted following the drawings of
Leonardo  da  Vinci.This time take lefthand path to Montececeri
another quarry on the right and at the first
Facing the river, walk to the left and roundY-junction take a few steps forward, then to
the balustrade until you come to a flight ofthe left along a short path for a striking
steps leading down to a small piazza. At theview from the top of the quarry face over to
end of this area is a board-map showing thethe  distant  hills  and down to the valleys.
most  celebrated  buildings  of  the  city.
Retrace your steps and follow this path with
BUS  TO  FIESOLEthe red-and-white marks and after 10 minutes
there is an uphill stretch along a wooden
ATAF  bus 7, Florence to Fiesole (20 minutes)handrail and stone steps. The path spirals
round to the left until you reach Piazzale
STOPPING  ATLeonardo. A few benches and tables are
available  for  rest  and  picnics.
Central Station - Piazza Indipendenza -
Piazza San Marco - Piazza della Libertà -The  board  shows  its  story.
Piazza delle Cure - Piazza Edison - Camerata
- San Domenico - Regresso - Piazza Mino daThis place is dedicated to the memory of
Fiesole.Leonardo da Vinci'sfirst human flight
experiment.
WALK  TIME
An area of strategic position during WORLD
3  hours.  Grade:  Leisurely.WAR  II
FIESOLEThe  translation  of  stone  column  reads:
A century ago, the walk uphill from FlorenceThe great bird will rise to its first flight
to Fiesole was only for the energetic; theover the summit of Ceceri, filling the
electric tram was tedious and long-winded,universe will awe and filling with its fame
and downright punishing for the horsesall writings and with eternal glory the nest
dragging their carriages of goods andwhere  it  was  born.
passengers.
In  Leonardo's  own  words  we  read.
Every Latin historian had something to say
about Fiesole. Rambling and strange at times"The aforesaid bird, aided by the wind, shall
as their stories might seem, they do containrise to a great height; and in this will be
a grain or two of truth. Some asserted thatits safety. Should any act of overturning
it was built by the Tirreni, others by theintervene, it will thus have time to regain
Pelasgians, or even by the Phoenicians. Itits equilibrium, when its limbs are of great
was certainly one of the richest and mostresistance so that it may withstand the fury
powerful of the Etruscan cities. Inevitably,and impetus of a descent with the aforesaid
the proud Roman clarion echoed one day alongprecautions and its strongly mounted joints
the Arno valley up the hillside and theand its nerves of strong raw silk; and with
inhabitants of Fiesole were eitherno interference of iron parts, as soon these
slaughtered or ordered to genuflect beforewill break under pressure, or will be subject
the invincible Legions. After the fall ofto wear, and therefore we should not employ
Rome, it was subsequently plundered severalthem.
times and lost its peculiar qualities. On the
old Etruscan and Roman ruins and monumentsBe reminded that the bird shall not imitate
the  new  town  was  slowly  built.any other than the bat, as the membrane
affords a structure, that is a connection for
In the immediate post-war years the youngthe  structure,  the  mainstays of the wings.
flower-girl sat at the corner, aggressive
street hawkers strolled the streets withShould you imitate the wings of feathered
cardboard boxes tied round their waistsbirds, they are of stronger bone and nerve to
containing their wares, and pitiful beggars,be perforated; that is the feathers are
little more than road-rats, sold holydisunited  and  so  let  air  pass  through.
pictures with potent prayers for a safe
wayfaring. Poverty was a role to beBut the bat is helped by the membrane, which
performed, not social offence, so a Tuscanties  all  together  and  is  not perforated.
rispetto  sings  -
Leaving the Piazzale, take the wide path
I  cast  a  palm-leaf  into  the  sea:along the garden wall on the left which leads
downhill for a few minutes to a mapboard,
The  waters  devour  it.where you turn left. Pass the road barrier
and soon a small open area of hard ground
I see others cast lead, and -comes into view on your right with a quaint
Lo!little church on the corner. This is Piazza
For  them  it  sails.dei Pini and the parish church of Borgunto,
seated like a seer in the midst of
On the way up today we leave behind the oldheathendom, which like so many woodland
wayside churches, shrines, crosses, greatchurches, may have been built on the very
villas once frequented by the Medici,spot set apart for sacred and solemn rites in
illustrious artists and writers, nowhonour of some ancient pagan god of the soil.
oppressed by modern hi-tech buildings in what
seems  intentional  defacement.Facing the church, look to the wall on your
left  which  is  marked
To the footsore pilgrim with sturdy pastoral
staff and dusty burlap outfit it was a day'sCAI-FIRENZE-ITIN-1
walk to the top, up those exceptionally steep
stony paths, still in place, which remind oneSettignano
of far-off effort and accomplishment. The
wayfarer has given place to turbo busesCompiobbi
pouring out streams of camera-burdened
tourists.SENTIERO  DEGLI  DEI
At present, an open square, some narrowThis is Via Peramonda, perhaps anciently a
streets, pleasing to the attentive eye, and amilitary road or a trade route. After a few
number of aesthetically attractive buildingsstrides along this road you will see the
form its personal façade. Indeed, oneentrance to a Fiesole Camping Site on your
can find some cloistered nooks with aleft. Proceed downhill now. A keen eye can
water-colour artist at work and a gatheringenjoy the views over the hills with their
of shadows with a writer. A few steps out oflarge farmsteads and elegant villas which
town one can come across the typical Tuscanbeckon  us  to  discover  them.
farmhouse with a vine loosely drooping over
the  doorway.Turn right when you come to the main road
about 20 minutes later. Walk on for 200m to
SANTA  MARIA  PRIMERANAthe bus area on the right, which is little
more than a clearing at the roadside. Turn
The church of Santa Maria Primerana, built ondown into the wood from the top side of this
an Etruscan fundament, was already known inarea and follow the path running parallel to
the year 966. Enlarged during the Middlethe main road to the left above it. This path
Ages, a new façade was built at thethrough the wood will soon meet a narrow road
end of the sixteenth century. The high alterat a T-junction where you must turn right.
has a small painting on wood with a MadonnaNow walk straight on. Do not turn right after
and Child by Maestro di Rovezzano. Thea few paces towards a barrier across the
transept has two bas-reliefs by Francesco datrack.
Sangallo. The glazed terracotta from the
workshop of Andrea della Robbia is admirable.Look carefully for the CAI signs on the tree
as you enter this rough stony way, suitable
On the second Sunday of May, the Podestà ,for cart-wheels and the cloven hoof. Walk on,
or Administrator of Justice, and the leadersthere are tall rushes on the right, until you
of the population, or Gonfalonieri, came herecome to a once admirable, yet still
to take the oath of office. The Badiadominating, wayside shrine up on the wall to
Fiesolana and the Amphitheatre should beyour left. One of the thousand tumbling
visited. On the west hilltop is thewayside shrines in Tuscany, worthy of a
Francescan Church and Monastery, where ladiesscholar's quotation or an artist's affection.
were  not  allowed  to  enter.The face of a young cherubim looks down with
mock humility as if offering a prayer for
CHURCH  of  SAN  LORENZO  at  VINCIGLIATAburdened wayfarers with a long road behind,
and  nowhere  to  go.
In the 15th century the Alessandri family,
who owned the nearby castle, built a bellIn those days gone by a place of worship,
tower on which is placed their stonerest and refreshment; a meeting point for
coat-of-arms. The family enlarged the churchtrivia where you can still meet a farmer with
at the end of the 18th century and itsa loaf of bread under his arm, an onion in
orientation was changed when thehis hand, and the neck of a small wine bottle
façade was built in place of the apse.peeping  out  of  his  pocket.
Over the window is a two-headed lamb and on
the tower a curious demon-like blowing twoWalk past a forlorn-looking farmstead further
fanfare trumpets. There is a terracotta bustalong the road, down along the cart-track
representing San Lorenzo and of a Madonna andthrough an olive grove. These tracks can
Child,  attributed  to Rossellino, 12th cent.become muddy after some rain and are better
suited for cartwheels and the cloven hoof.
CASTLE  of  VINCIGLIATAUntil a few years ago one could meet beasts
of burden tramping along here, and those
On the outer wall are a number ofgreat white oxen, slow, swaying bodies,
commemorative plaques to eminent sojourners,already worshipped two thousand years ago as
including such names as Queen Elizabeth andthe  incarnation  of  the  earth-gods:
Beatrice, Battenberg, Hohenlohe, Hohenzollern
and  the  Duchess  of  Russia.And to those also, O Lord, the humble beasts,
who with us bear the burden and heat of the
The castle was little more than a ruin whenday, and offer their guileless lives for the
in 1855 John Temple Leader bought it, andwell-being of their countries, we supplicate
much of the land and a large number ofThy  great  tenderness  of  heart.
crumbling farmsteads and churches in the
neighbourhood, and set himself the gruellingWhen you get to the end of this first
task  about  restoring  all  of his property.stretch, head towards the wood. Don't take
the  right-hand  turn  downhill.
BEGINNING  YOUR  WALK
The walk through the wood is brief. In the
When you get off the bus in Piazza Mino damorning a dew-laden spider's web lays itself
Fiesole look up towards the Town Hall, theacross your face and a keen eye can find
Municipio, at the east end above the town carregurgitated owl pellets of slimy fur and
park. Before setting out, stop to observe thehalf-digested bone. at the end the path comes
remarkable display of heraldry on theto another old, crestfallen farmhouse with a
façade remembering the Podestà ,yard and out-buildings. Walk round it, down
and visit the church of Santa Mariabetween rugged dry walls and along a track
Primerana.covered with Summer dust waiting for
September winds to make a sally and bare its
Facing the church, take the narrow lane athumps again. After 10 minutes it leads uphill
the extreme right. This is Via Giuseppeand  on  to  a  narrow  asphalt  road.
Verdi. Look for the sign on the wall to the
rightTurn right, downhill to the roadside church
of San Lorenzo. Across the valley are the
PASSEGGIATA PANORAMICAwhile on the left is aquarries  of Maiano where Walkway One passes.
red  and  white  mark  indicating
A few minutes down the road is the
CAI-ITIN-1eye-catching Castle of Vincigliata. On the
high outer walls are stone tablets
SETTIGNANO  1  hcommemorating the sojourn of names such as
Queen Elizabeth and Beatrice, Battenberg,
COMPIOBBI  2.30  hHohenlohe and Hohenzollern and the Duchess of
Russia.
Our walk now begins. The roads and paths
ahead are copiously way-marked with these redAt the first sweeping bend after the castle,
and  white  CAI  blazes.take the track on the left through the olive
groves. There is comfort and security in
The tight little lane climbs fairly steeplylong, straight paths. Life flows smoothly on.
for a few minutes between villas and housesBut the Genius Loci appears from behind
of refined composition and artistry until itsudden dips and bends and lives under the
levels out at the top. Don't be toouncontaminated blank spaces on the wayfarers
ambitious. Enjoy a relaxing leisurely pace.map.
On the right is dramatic view over Florence
and the background towards the Chianti hillsWalk slightly uphill to the large renovated
- a sight to slake the thirst of any romanticbuilding on the right with its chapel
soul. From this point the city is best seenstanding on the ground opposite. The view
at dawn or in the evening when the sun is lowfrom here over the olive groves and cypress
and the background hills present a sharp edgetrees towards Florence in the background must
against  the  western  sky.surely be one of the deepest emotional
admiration.
Walk forward keeping to the left. Do not take
Via Doccia which dips down to the right. YouNot far along the track we come to a house on
are now in Via Montececeri. Up on thethe corner of a junction. This is Casa al
right-hand wall of the corner house is a signVento. Look for the large cypress tree on the
right. Walk round the house and take the
FRANK  LLOYD  WRIGHT  lived  here  1910rough stony road to the left. Do not be
tempted to take the path to the left before
After 150m the road levels out again for athe house (Trail 2) or the track from the
second view across the valley as far as thehouse leading straight on past the small ruin
eye can see. Via Montececeri ends after ain the field on the left. Walk slowly
minute and at the branch take the roaddownhill. This path is rough and dusty in dry
downhill to the right, Via degli Scalpellini.weather, and slippery after rain. There are
Look for the red and white CAI mark. A fewolive trees on the right, cypresses up to the
paces forward will take you to Via delleft, and further up heather taller than a
Pelagaccio which veers sharply uphill to theman and plants showing a struggle to survive.
left. Do not take this road. Walk forwardAfter 20 minutes you come to Via del
along the straight gravel footpath leadingFossataccio. On the left is a house with a
towards the wood. After 200m you come to ashrine  up on the wall. The inscription reads
board on the right showing a map of the park.
The path now takes you through the wood.MONSTRA  TE  ESSE  MATREM.
Swing uphill to the left at the first
Y-junction, always bearing in mind to followNote the marks on the wall to the right. Walk
the red and white CAI blazes on the trees orstraight forward along Via Desiderio da
rocks, disregarding the blue-red marks. TurnSettignano, past the cemetery on the right,
right after 5om. It takes about 10 minutes touphill a little between the first houses of
reach a handrail on the right and woodenthe town to the junction with Via S. Romano.
bench on the left. An excellent view over theTurn right and proceed down to the Piazza.
Arno valley. The Florence soccer stadium isLook at the curious façade of the
straight down in front in the foreground andSocietà Corale, a building on the right
the Cathedral and Palazzo Vecchio are justjust after the very narrow part of the
over  to  the  right.street.
Downhill again, you come to the first stone…even I feel in me to have
quarry on the left. A dark sinister hole insuckled in with milk the love for sculpture
the hillside, worthy of a short visit. Thesein Settignano where I was raised, and where
quarries were still used until the 50's. Atpart of the inhabitants are
the nearby 3-pronged junction, take thesculptors… Michelangelo.
middle path on the same level that swings to
the  left.Bus number 10 from the piazza takes thirty
minutes back down to Florence.



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