Tuscan Wanderways - Walking in and Around Florence

TUSCAN WANDERWAYS				downhill path. Keep following the red and white
FIESOLE - MONTECECERI - SETTIGNANO				blazes. The path dips down, the ground it rough,
Before setting out, the best way to interpret				but you soon come to clearing in the wood where
your wanderway from Fiesole up to Montececeri				you take left turning uphill; again we can see the
and over to Settignano, is to observe it from				frequent on the trees. Look up to the left, up to
afar. Take a bus up to Piazzale Michelangelo, one				the cypress trees on the hilltop to get your
of the most frequented landmarks of the city.				bearings. Ten minutes uphill, keeping the hilltop to
From the front balustrade of the Piazzale, look				your left, you come to the red-and-white marks
down over the river Arno to the cupola of the				on the rock in front of you.
Cathedral, and then directly up to the horizon.				MONTECECERI -------------BORGUNTO
Fiesole crowns the hilltop in the distance, and				MAIANO
beside it, to your right, is Montececeri. It was				This time take lefthand path to Montececeri
from this platform that the "first human flight"				another quarry on the right and at the first
was attempted following the drawings of				Y-junction take a few steps forward, then to the
Leonardo da Vinci.				left along a short path for a striking view from
Facing the river, walk to the left and round the				the top of the quarry face over to the distant
balustrade until you come to a flight of steps				hills and down to the valleys.
leading down to a small piazza. At the end of this				Retrace your steps and follow this path with the
area is a board-map showing the most celebrated				red-and-white marks and after 10 minutes there
buildings of the city.				is an uphill stretch along a wooden handrail and
BUS TO FIESOLE				stone steps. The path spirals round to the left
ATAF bus 7, Florence to Fiesole (20 minutes)				until you reach Piazzale Leonardo. A few benches
STOPPING AT				and tables are available for rest and picnics.
Central Station - Piazza Indipendenza - Piazza San				The board shows its story.
Marco - Piazza della LibertÃƒ - Piazza delle				This place is dedicated to the memory of
Cure - Piazza Edison - Camerata - San Domenico				Leonardo da Vinci'sfirst human flight experiment.
- Regresso - Piazza Mino da Fiesole.				An area of strategic position during WORLD WAR
WALK TIME				II
3 hours. Grade: Leisurely.				The translation of stone column reads:
FIESOLE				The great bird will rise to its first flight over the
A century ago, the walk uphill from Florence to				summit of Ceceri, filling the universe will awe and
Fiesole was only for the energetic; the electric				filling with its fame all writings and with eternal
tram was tedious and long-winded, and downright				glory the nest where it was born.
punishing for the horses dragging their carriages				In Leonardo's own words we read.
of goods and passengers.				"The aforesaid bird, aided by the wind, shall rise to
Every Latin historian had something to say about				a great height; and in this will be its safety. Should
Fiesole. Rambling and strange at times as their				any act of overturning intervene, it will thus have
stories might seem, they do contain a grain or				time to regain its equilibrium, when its limbs are of
two of truth. Some asserted that it was built by				great resistance so that it may withstand the
the Tirreni, others by the Pelasgians, or even by				fury and impetus of a descent with the aforesaid
the Phoenicians. It was certainly one of the richest				precautions and its strongly mounted joints and its
and most powerful of the Etruscan cities.				nerves of strong raw silk; and with no
Inevitably, the proud Roman clarion echoed one				interference of iron parts, as soon these will
day along the Arno valley up the hillside and the				break under pressure, or will be subject to wear,
inhabitants of Fiesole were either slaughtered or				and therefore we should not employ them.
ordered to genuflect before the invincible Legions.				Be reminded that the bird shall not imitate any
After the fall of Rome, it was subsequently				other than the bat, as the membrane affords a
plundered several times and lost its peculiar				structure, that is a connection for the structure,
qualities. On the old Etruscan and Roman ruins and				the mainstays of the wings.
monuments the new town was slowly built.				Should you imitate the wings of feathered birds,
In the immediate post-war years the young				they are of stronger bone and nerve to be
flower-girl sat at the corner, aggressive street				perforated; that is the feathers are disunited and
hawkers strolled the streets with cardboard				so let air pass through.
boxes tied round their waists containing their				But the bat is helped by the membrane, which
wares, and pitiful beggars, little more than				ties all together and is not perforated.
road-rats, sold holy pictures with potent prayers				Leaving the Piazzale, take the wide path along the
for a safe wayfaring. Poverty was a role to be				garden wall on the left which leads downhill for a
performed, not social offence, so a Tuscan				few minutes to a mapboard, where you turn left.
rispetto sings -				Pass the road barrier and soon a small open area
I cast a palm-leaf into the sea:				of hard ground comes into view on your right
The waters devour it.				with a quaint little church on the corner. This is
I see others cast lead, and - Lo! For them it sails.				Piazza dei Pini and the parish church of Borgunto,
On the way up today we leave behind the old				seated like a seer in the midst of heathendom,
wayside churches, shrines, crosses, great villas				which like so many woodland churches, may have
once frequented by the Medici, illustrious artists				been built on the very spot set apart for sacred
and writers, now oppressed by modern hi-tech				and solemn rites in honour of some ancient pagan
buildings in what seems intentional defacement.				god of the soil.
To the footsore pilgrim with sturdy pastoral staff				Facing the church, look to the wall on your left
and dusty burlap outfit it was a day's walk to the				which is marked
top, up those exceptionally steep stony paths, still				CAI-FIRENZE-ITIN-1
in place, which remind one of far-off effort and				Settignano
accomplishment. The wayfarer has given place to				Compiobbi
turbo buses pouring out streams of				SENTIERO DEGLI DEI
camera-burdened tourists.				This is Via Peramonda, perhaps anciently a military
At present, an open square, some narrow				road or a trade route. After a few strides along
streets, pleasing to the attentive eye, and a				this road you will see the entrance to a Fiesole
number of aesthetically attractive buildings form				Camping Site on your left. Proceed downhill now.
its personal faÃƒÂ§ade. Indeed, one can				A keen eye can enjoy the views over the hills
find some cloistered nooks with a water-colour				with their large farmsteads and elegant villas
artist at work and a gathering of shadows with a				which beckon us to discover them.
writer. A few steps out of town one can come				Turn right when you come to the main road
across the typical Tuscan farmhouse with a vine				about 20 minutes later. Walk on for 200m to the
loosely drooping over the doorway.				bus area on the right, which is little more than a
SANTA MARIA PRIMERANA				clearing at the roadside. Turn down into the wood
The church of Santa Maria Primerana, built on an				from the top side of this area and follow the path
Etruscan fundament, was already known in the				running parallel to the main road to the left above
year 966. Enlarged during the Middle Ages, a new				it. This path through the wood will soon meet a
faÃƒÂ§ade was built at the end of the				narrow road at a T-junction where you must turn
sixteenth century. The high alter has a small				right. Now walk straight on. Do not turn right after
painting on wood with a Madonna and Child by				a few paces towards a barrier across the track.
Maestro di Rovezzano. The transept has two				Look carefully for the CAI signs on the tree as
bas-reliefs by Francesco da Sangallo. The glazed				you enter this rough stony way, suitable for
terracotta from the workshop of Andrea della				cart-wheels and the cloven hoof. Walk on, there
Robbia is admirable.				are tall rushes on the right, until you come to a
On the second Sunday of May, the				once admirable, yet still dominating, wayside shrine
PodestÃƒ , or Administrator of Justice, and				up on the wall to your left. One of the thousand
the leaders of the population, or Gonfalonieri,				tumbling wayside shrines in Tuscany, worthy of a
came here to take the oath of office. The Badia				scholar's quotation or an artist's affection. The
Fiesolana and the Amphitheatre should be visited.				face of a young cherubim looks down with mock
On the west hilltop is the Francescan Church and				humility as if offering a prayer for burdened
Monastery, where ladies were not allowed to				wayfarers with a long road behind, and nowhere
enter.				to go.
CHURCH of SAN LORENZO at VINCIGLIATA				In those days gone by a place of worship, rest
In the 15th century the Alessandri family, who				and refreshment; a meeting point for trivia where
owned the nearby castle, built a bell tower on				you can still meet a farmer with a loaf of bread
which is placed their stone coat-of-arms. The				under his arm, an onion in his hand, and the neck
family enlarged the church at the end of the 18th				of a small wine bottle peeping out of his pocket.
century and its orientation was changed when the				Walk past a forlorn-looking farmstead further
faÃƒÂ§ade was built in place of the apse.				along the road, down along the cart-track through
Over the window is a two-headed lamb and on				an olive grove. These tracks can become muddy
the tower a curious demon-like blowing two				after some rain and are better suited for
fanfare trumpets. There is a terracotta bust				cartwheels and the cloven hoof. Until a few years
representing San Lorenzo and of a Madonna and				ago one could meet beasts of burden tramping
Child, attributed to Rossellino, 12th cent.				along here, and those great white oxen, slow,
CASTLE of VINCIGLIATA				swaying bodies, already worshipped two thousand
On the outer wall are a number of				years ago as the incarnation of the earth-gods:
commemorative plaques to eminent sojourners,				And to those also, O Lord, the humble beasts,
including such names as Queen Elizabeth and				who with us bear the burden and heat of the
Beatrice, Battenberg, Hohenlohe, Hohenzollern and				day, and offer their guileless lives for the
the Duchess of Russia.				well-being of their countries, we supplicate Thy
The castle was little more than a ruin when in				great tenderness of heart.
1855 John Temple Leader bought it, and much of				When you get to the end of this first stretch,
the land and a large number of crumbling				head towards the wood. Don't take the right-hand
farmsteads and churches in the neighbourhood,				turn downhill.
and set himself the gruelling task about restoring				The walk through the wood is brief. In the
all of his property.				morning a dew-laden spider's web lays itself
BEGINNING YOUR WALK				across your face and a keen eye can find
When you get off the bus in Piazza Mino da				regurgitated owl pellets of slimy fur and
Fiesole look up towards the Town Hall, the				half-digested bone. at the end the path comes to
Municipio, at the east end above the town car				another old, crestfallen farmhouse with a yard and
park. Before setting out, stop to observe the				out-buildings. Walk round it, down between rugged
remarkable display of heraldry on the				dry walls and along a track covered with Summer
faÃƒÂ§ade remembering the				dust waiting for September winds to make a sally
PodestÃƒ , and visit the church of Santa				and bare its humps again. After 10 minutes it
Maria Primerana.				leads uphill and on to a narrow asphalt road.
Facing the church, take the narrow lane at the				Turn right, downhill to the roadside church of San
extreme right. This is Via Giuseppe Verdi. Look				Lorenzo. Across the valley are the quarries of
for the sign on the wall to the right				Maiano where Walkway One passes.
PASSEGGIATA PANORAMICAwhile on the left is				A few minutes down the road is the eye-catching
a red and white mark indicating				Castle of Vincigliata. On the high outer walls are
CAI-ITIN-1				stone tablets commemorating the sojourn of
SETTIGNANO 1 h				names such as Queen Elizabeth and Beatrice,
COMPIOBBI 2.30 h				Battenberg, Hohenlohe and Hohenzollern and the
Our walk now begins. The roads and paths ahead				Duchess of Russia.
are copiously way-marked with these red and				At the first sweeping bend after the castle, take
white CAI blazes.				the track on the left through the olive groves.
The tight little lane climbs fairly steeply for a few				There is comfort and security in long, straight
minutes between villas and houses of refined				paths. Life flows smoothly on. But the Genius Loci
composition and artistry until it levels out at the				appears from behind sudden dips and bends and
top. Don't be too ambitious. Enjoy a relaxing				lives under the uncontaminated blank spaces on
leisurely pace. On the right is dramatic view over				the wayfarers map.
Florence and the background towards the Chianti				Walk slightly uphill to the large renovated building
hills - a sight to slake the thirst of any romantic				on the right with its chapel standing on the ground
soul. From this point the city is best seen at dawn				opposite. The view from here over the olive
or in the evening when the sun is low and the				groves and cypress trees towards Florence in the
background hills present a sharp edge against the				background must surely be one of the deepest
western sky.				emotional admiration.
Walk forward keeping to the left. Do not take Via				Not far along the track we come to a house on
Doccia which dips down to the right. You are now				the corner of a junction. This is Casa al Vento.
in Via Montececeri. Up on the right-hand wall of				Look for the large cypress tree on the right. Walk
the corner house is a sign				round the house and take the rough stony road
FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT lived here 1910				to the left. Do not be tempted to take the path
After 150m the road levels out again for a				to the left before the house (Trail 2) or the track
second view across the valley as far as the eye				from the house leading straight on past the small
can see. Via Montececeri ends after a minute and				ruin in the field on the left. Walk slowly downhill.
at the branch take the road downhill to the right,				This path is rough and dusty in dry weather, and
Via degli Scalpellini. Look for the red and white CAI				slippery after rain. There are olive trees on the
mark. A few paces forward will take you to Via				right, cypresses up to the left, and further up
del Pelagaccio which veers sharply uphill to the left.				heather taller than a man and plants showing a
Do not take this road. Walk forward along the				struggle to survive. After 20 minutes you come
straight gravel footpath leading towards the wood.				to Via del Fossataccio. On the left is a house with
After 200m you come to a board on the right				a shrine up on the wall. The inscription reads
showing a map of the park. The path now takes				MONSTRA TE ESSE MATREM.
you through the wood. Swing uphill to the left at				Note the marks on the wall to the right. Walk
the first Y-junction, always bearing in mind to				straight forward along Via Desiderio da Settignano,
follow the red and white CAI blazes on the trees				past the cemetery on the right, uphill a little
or rocks, disregarding the blue-red marks. Turn				between the first houses of the town to the
right after 5om. It takes about 10 minutes to				junction with Via S. Romano. Turn right and
reach a handrail on the right and wooden bench				proceed down to the Piazza. Look at the curious
on the left. An excellent view over the Arno				faÃƒÂ§ade of the SocietÃƒ Corale,
valley. The Florence soccer stadium is straight				a building on the right just after the very narrow
down in front in the foreground and the Cathedral				part of the street.
and Palazzo Vecchio are just over to the right.				Ã¢Â€Â¦even I feel in me to have
Downhill again, you come to the first stone quarry				suckled in with milk the love for sculpture in
on the left. A dark sinister hole in the hillside,				Settignano where I was raised, and where part of
worthy of a short visit. These quarries were still				the inhabitants are sculptorsÃ¢Â€Â¦
used until the 50's. At the nearby 3-pronged				Michelangelo.
junction, take the middle path on the same level				Bus number 10 from the piazza takes thirty
that swings to the left.				minutes back down to Florence.
Do not walk uphill to the left or take the right

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Tuscan Wanderways - Walking in and Around Florence