| TUSCAN WANDERWAYS
| |
| | come to clearing in the wood where you
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| FIESOLE - MONTECECERI - SETTIGNANO
| |
| | take left turning uphill; again we can
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| Before setting out, the best way to
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| | see the frequent on the trees. Look up to
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| interpret your wanderway from Fiesole up
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| | the left, up to the cypress trees on the
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| to Montececeri and over to Settignano, is
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| | hilltop to get your bearings. Ten minutes
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| to observe it from afar. Take a bus up to
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| | uphill, keeping the hilltop to your left,
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| Piazzale Michelangelo, one of the most
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| | you come to the red-and-white marks on
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| frequented landmarks of the city. From
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| | the rock in front of you.
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| the front balustrade of the Piazzale,
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| | MONTECECERI -------------BORGUNTO
|
| look down over the river Arno to the
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| | MAIANO
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| cupola of the Cathedral, and then
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| | This time take lefthand path to
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| directly up to the horizon. Fiesole
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| | Montececeri another quarry on the right
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| crowns the hilltop in the distance, and
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| | and at the first Y-junction take a few
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| beside it, to your right, is Montececeri.
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| | steps forward, then to the left along a
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| It was from this platform that the "first
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| | short path for a striking view from the
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| human flight" was attempted following the
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| | top of the quarry face over to the
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| drawings of Leonardo da Vinci.
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| | distant hills and down to the valleys.
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| Facing the river, walk to the left and
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| | Retrace your steps and follow this path
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| round the balustrade until you come to a
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| | with the red-and-white marks and after 10
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| flight of steps leading down to a small
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| | minutes there is an uphill stretch along
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| piazza. At the end of this area is a
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| | a wooden handrail and stone steps. The
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| board-map showing the most celebrated
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| | path spirals round to the left until you
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| buildings of the city.
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| | reach Piazzale Leonardo. A few benches
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| BUS TO FIESOLE
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| | and tables are available for rest and
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| ATAF bus 7, Florence to Fiesole (20
| |
| | picnics.
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| minutes)
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| | The board shows its story.
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| STOPPING AT
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| | This place is dedicated to the memory of
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| Central Station - Piazza Indipendenza -
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| | Leonardo da Vinci'sfirst human flight
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| Piazza San Marco - Piazza della LibertÃ
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| | experiment.
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| - Piazza delle Cure - Piazza Edison -
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| | An area of strategic position during
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| Camerata - San Domenico - Regresso -
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| | WORLD WAR II
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| Piazza Mino da Fiesole.
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| | The translation of stone column reads:
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| WALK TIME
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| | The great bird will rise to its first
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| 3 hours. Grade: Leisurely.
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| | flight over the summit of Ceceri, filling
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| FIESOLE
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| | the universe will awe and filling with
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| A century ago, the walk uphill from
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| | its fame all writings and with eternal
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| Florence to Fiesole was only for the
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| | glory the nest where it was born.
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| energetic; the electric tram was tedious
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| | In Leonardo's own words we read.
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| and long-winded, and downright punishing
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| | "The aforesaid bird, aided by the wind,
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| for the horses dragging their carriages
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| | shall rise to a great height; and in this
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| of goods and passengers.
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| | will be its safety. Should any act of
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| Every Latin historian had something to
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| | overturning intervene, it will thus have
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| say about Fiesole. Rambling and strange
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| | time to regain its equilibrium, when its
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| at times as their stories might seem,
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| | limbs are of great resistance so that it
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| they do contain a grain or two of truth.
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| | may withstand the fury and impetus of a
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| Some asserted that it was built by the
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| | descent with the aforesaid precautions
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| Tirreni, others by the Pelasgians, or
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| | and its strongly mounted joints and its
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| even by the Phoenicians. It was certainly
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| | nerves of strong raw silk; and with no
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| one of the richest and most powerful of
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| | interference of iron parts, as soon these
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| the Etruscan cities. Inevitably, the
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| | will break under pressure, or will be
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| proud Roman clarion echoed one day along
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| | subject to wear, and therefore we should
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| the Arno valley up the hillside and the
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| | not employ them.
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| inhabitants of Fiesole were either
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| | Be reminded that the bird shall not
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| slaughtered or ordered to genuflect
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| | imitate any other than the bat, as the
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| before the invincible Legions. After the
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| | membrane affords a structure, that is a
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| fall of Rome, it was subsequently
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| | connection for the structure, the
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| plundered several times and lost its
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| | mainstays of the wings.
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| peculiar qualities. On the old Etruscan
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| | Should you imitate the wings of feathered
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| and Roman ruins and monuments the new
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| | birds, they are of stronger bone and
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| town was slowly built.
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| | nerve to be perforated; that is the
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| In the immediate post-war years the young
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| | feathers are disunited and so let air
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| flower-girl sat at the corner, aggressive
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| | pass through.
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| street hawkers strolled the streets with
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| | But the bat is helped by the membrane,
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| cardboard boxes tied round their waists
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| | which ties all together and is not
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| containing their wares, and pitiful
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| | perforated.
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| beggars, little more than road-rats, sold
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| | Leaving the Piazzale, take the wide path
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| holy pictures with potent prayers for a
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| | along the garden wall on the left which
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| safe wayfaring. Poverty was a role to be
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| | leads downhill for a few minutes to a
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| performed, not social offence, so a
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| | mapboard, where you turn left. Pass the
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| Tuscan rispetto sings -
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| | road barrier and soon a small open area
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| I cast a palm-leaf into the sea:
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| | of hard ground comes into view on your
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| The waters devour it.
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| | right with a quaint little church on the
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| I see others cast lead, and -
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| | corner. This is Piazza dei Pini and the
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|
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| | parish church of Borgunto, seated like a
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| Lo! For them it sails.
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| | seer in the midst of heathendom, which
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| On the way up today we leave behind the
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| | like so many woodland churches, may have
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| old wayside churches, shrines, crosses,
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| | been built on the very spot set apart for
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| great villas once frequented by the
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| | sacred and solemn rites in honour of some
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| Medici, illustrious artists and writers,
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| | ancient pagan god of the soil.
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| now oppressed by modern hi-tech buildings
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| | Facing the church, look to the wall on
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| in what seems intentional defacement.
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| | your left which is marked
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| To the footsore pilgrim with sturdy
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| | CAI-FIRENZE-ITIN-1
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| pastoral staff and dusty burlap outfit it
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| | Settignano
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| was a day's walk to the top, up those
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| | Compiobbi
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| exceptionally steep stony paths, still in
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| | SENTIERO DEGLI DEI
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| place, which remind one of far-off effort
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| | This is Via Peramonda, perhaps anciently
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| and accomplishment. The wayfarer has
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| | a military road or a trade route. After a
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| given place to turbo buses pouring out
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| | few strides along this road you will see
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| streams of camera-burdened tourists.
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| | the entrance to a Fiesole Camping Site on
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| At present, an open square, some narrow
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| | your left. Proceed downhill now. A keen
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| streets, pleasing to the attentive eye,
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| | eye can enjoy the views over the hills
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| and a number of aesthetically attractive
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| | with their large farmsteads and elegant
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| buildings form its personal façade.
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| | villas which beckon us to discover them.
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| Indeed, one can find some cloistered
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| | Turn right when you come to the main road
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| nooks with a water-colour artist at work
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| | about 20 minutes later. Walk on for 200m
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| and a gathering of shadows with a writer.
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| | to the bus area on the right, which is
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| A few steps out of town one can come
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| | little more than a clearing at the
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| across the typical Tuscan farmhouse with
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| | roadside. Turn down into the wood from
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| a vine loosely drooping over the doorway.
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| | the top side of this area and follow the
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| SANTA MARIA PRIMERANA
| |
| | path running parallel to the main road to
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| The church of Santa Maria Primerana,
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| | the left above it. This path through the
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| built on an Etruscan fundament, was
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| | wood will soon meet a narrow road at a
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| already known in the year 966. Enlarged
| |
| | T-junction where you must turn right. Now
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| during the Middle Ages, a new façade
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| | walk straight on. Do not turn right after
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| was built at the end of the sixteenth
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| | a few paces towards a barrier across the
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| century. The high alter has a small
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| | track.
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| painting on wood with a Madonna and Child
| |
| | Look carefully for the CAI signs on the
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| by Maestro di Rovezzano. The transept has
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| | tree as you enter this rough stony way,
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| two bas-reliefs by Francesco da Sangallo.
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| | suitable for cart-wheels and the cloven
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| The glazed terracotta from the workshop
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| | hoof. Walk on, there are tall rushes on
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| of Andrea della Robbia is admirable.
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| | the right, until you come to a once
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| On the second Sunday of May, the PodestÃ
| |
| | admirable, yet still dominating, wayside
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| , or Administrator of Justice, and the
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| | shrine up on the wall to your left. One
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| leaders of the population, or
| |
| | of the thousand tumbling wayside shrines
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| Gonfalonieri, came here to take the oath
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| | in Tuscany, worthy of a scholar's
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| of office. The Badia Fiesolana and the
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| | quotation or an artist's affection. The
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| Amphitheatre should be visited. On the
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| | face of a young cherubim looks down with
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| west hilltop is the Francescan Church and
| |
| | mock humility as if offering a prayer for
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| Monastery, where ladies were not allowed
| |
| | burdened wayfarers with a long road
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| to enter.
| |
| | behind, and nowhere to go.
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| CHURCH of SAN LORENZO at VINCIGLIATA
| |
| | In those days gone by a place of worship,
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| In the 15th century the Alessandri
| |
| | rest and refreshment; a meeting point for
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| family, who owned the nearby castle,
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| | trivia where you can still meet a farmer
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| built a bell tower on which is placed
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| | with a loaf of bread under his arm, an
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| their stone coat-of-arms. The family
| |
| | onion in his hand, and the neck of a
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| enlarged the church at the end of the
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| | small wine bottle peeping out of his
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| 18th century and its orientation was
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| | pocket.
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| changed when the façade was built in
| |
| | Walk past a forlorn-looking farmstead
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| place of the apse. Over the window is a
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| | further along the road, down along the
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| two-headed lamb and on the tower a
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| | cart-track through an olive grove. These
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| curious demon-like blowing two fanfare
| |
| | tracks can become muddy after some rain
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| trumpets. There is a terracotta bust
| |
| | and are better suited for cartwheels and
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| representing San Lorenzo and of a Madonna
| |
| | the cloven hoof. Until a few years ago
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| and Child, attributed to Rossellino, 12th
| |
| | one could meet beasts of burden tramping
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| cent.
| |
| | along here, and those great white oxen,
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| CASTLE of VINCIGLIATA
| |
| | slow, swaying bodies, already worshipped
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| On the outer wall are a number of
| |
| | two thousand years ago as the incarnation
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| commemorative plaques to eminent
| |
| | of the earth-gods:
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| sojourners, including such names as Queen
| |
| | And to those also, O Lord, the humble
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| Elizabeth and Beatrice, Battenberg,
| |
| | beasts, who with us bear the burden and
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| Hohenlohe, Hohenzollern and the Duchess
| |
| | heat of the day, and offer their
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| of Russia.
| |
| | guileless lives for the well-being of
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| The castle was little more than a ruin
| |
| | their countries, we supplicate Thy great
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| when in 1855 John Temple Leader bought
| |
| | tenderness of heart.
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| it, and much of the land and a large
| |
| | When you get to the end of this first
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| number of crumbling farmsteads and
| |
| | stretch, head towards the wood. Don't
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| churches in the neighbourhood, and set
| |
| | take the right-hand turn downhill.
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| himself the gruelling task about
| |
| | The walk through the wood is brief. In
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| restoring all of his property.
| |
| | the morning a dew-laden spider's web lays
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| BEGINNING YOUR WALK
| |
| | itself across your face and a keen eye
|
| When you get off the bus in Piazza Mino
| |
| | can find regurgitated owl pellets of
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| da Fiesole look up towards the Town Hall,
| |
| | slimy fur and half-digested bone. at the
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| the Municipio, at the east end above the
| |
| | end the path comes to another old,
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| town car park. Before setting out, stop
| |
| | crestfallen farmhouse with a yard and
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| to observe the remarkable display of
| |
| | out-buildings. Walk round it, down
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| heraldry on the façade remembering the
| |
| | between rugged dry walls and along a
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| Podestà , and visit the church of Santa
| |
| | track covered with Summer dust waiting
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| Maria Primerana.
| |
| | for September winds to make a sally and
|
| Facing the church, take the narrow lane
| |
| | bare its humps again. After 10 minutes it
|
| at the extreme right. This is Via
| |
| | leads uphill and on to a narrow asphalt
|
| Giuseppe Verdi. Look for the sign on the
| |
| | road.
|
| wall to the right
| |
| | Turn right, downhill to the roadside
|
| PASSEGGIATA PANORAMICAwhile on the left
| |
| | church of San Lorenzo. Across the valley
|
| is a red and white mark indicating
| |
| | are the quarries of Maiano where Walkway
|
| CAI-ITIN-1
| |
| | One passes.
|
| SETTIGNANO 1 h
| |
| | A few minutes down the road is the
|
| COMPIOBBI 2.30 h
| |
| | eye-catching Castle of Vincigliata. On
|
| Our walk now begins. The roads and paths
| |
| | the high outer walls are stone tablets
|
| ahead are copiously way-marked with these
| |
| | commemorating the sojourn of names such
|
| red and white CAI blazes.
| |
| | as Queen Elizabeth and Beatrice,
|
| The tight little lane climbs fairly
| |
| | Battenberg, Hohenlohe and Hohenzollern
|
| steeply for a few minutes between villas
| |
| | and the Duchess of Russia.
|
| and houses of refined composition and
| |
| | At the first sweeping bend after the
|
| artistry until it levels out at the top.
| |
| | castle, take the track on the left
|
| Don't be too ambitious. Enjoy a relaxing
| |
| | through the olive groves. There is
|
| leisurely pace. On the right is dramatic
| |
| | comfort and security in long, straight
|
| view over Florence and the background
| |
| | paths. Life flows smoothly on. But the
|
| towards the Chianti hills - a sight to
| |
| | Genius Loci appears from behind sudden
|
| slake the thirst of any romantic soul.
| |
| | dips and bends and lives under the
|
| From this point the city is best seen at
| |
| | uncontaminated blank spaces on the
|
| dawn or in the evening when the sun is
| |
| | wayfarers map.
|
| low and the background hills present a
| |
| | Walk slightly uphill to the large
|
| sharp edge against the western sky.
| |
| | renovated building on the right with its
|
| Walk forward keeping to the left. Do not
| |
| | chapel standing on the ground opposite.
|
| take Via Doccia which dips down to the
| |
| | The view from here over the olive groves
|
| right. You are now in Via Montececeri. Up
| |
| | and cypress trees towards Florence in the
|
| on the right-hand wall of the corner
| |
| | background must surely be one of the
|
| house is a sign
| |
| | deepest emotional admiration.
|
| FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT lived here 1910
| |
| | Not far along the track we come to a
|
| After 150m the road levels out again for
| |
| | house on the corner of a junction. This
|
| a second view across the valley as far as
| |
| | is Casa al Vento. Look for the large
|
| the eye can see. Via Montececeri ends
| |
| | cypress tree on the right. Walk round the
|
| after a minute and at the branch take the
| |
| | house and take the rough stony road to
|
| road downhill to the right, Via degli
| |
| | the left. Do not be tempted to take the
|
| Scalpellini. Look for the red and white
| |
| | path to the left before the house (Trail
|
| CAI mark. A few paces forward will take
| |
| | 2) or the track from the house leading
|
| you to Via del Pelagaccio which veers
| |
| | straight on past the small ruin in the
|
| sharply uphill to the left. Do not take
| |
| | field on the left. Walk slowly downhill.
|
| this road. Walk forward along the
| |
| | This path is rough and dusty in dry
|
| straight gravel footpath leading towards
| |
| | weather, and slippery after rain. There
|
| the wood. After 200m you come to a board
| |
| | are olive trees on the right, cypresses
|
| on the right showing a map of the park.
| |
| | up to the left, and further up heather
|
| The path now takes you through the wood.
| |
| | taller than a man and plants showing a
|
| Swing uphill to the left at the first
| |
| | struggle to survive. After 20 minutes you
|
| Y-junction, always bearing in mind to
| |
| | come to Via del Fossataccio. On the left
|
| follow the red and white CAI blazes on
| |
| | is a house with a shrine up on the wall.
|
| the trees or rocks, disregarding the
| |
| | The inscription reads
|
| blue-red marks. Turn right after 5om. It
| |
| | MONSTRA TE ESSE MATREM.
|
| takes about 10 minutes to reach a
| |
| | Note the marks on the wall to the right.
|
| handrail on the right and wooden bench on
| |
| | Walk straight forward along Via Desiderio
|
| the left. An excellent view over the Arno
| |
| | da Settignano, past the cemetery on the
|
| valley. The Florence soccer stadium is
| |
| | right, uphill a little between the first
|
| straight down in front in the foreground
| |
| | houses of the town to the junction with
|
| and the Cathedral and Palazzo Vecchio are
| |
| | Via S. Romano. Turn right and proceed
|
| just over to the right.
| |
| | down to the Piazza. Look at the curious
|
| Downhill again, you come to the first
| |
| | façade of the Società Corale, a
|
| stone quarry on the left. A dark sinister
| |
| | building on the right just after the very
|
| hole in the hillside, worthy of a short
| |
| | narrow part of the street.
|
| visit. These quarries were still used
| |
| | â¦even I feel in me to have suckled
|
| until the 50's. At the nearby 3-pronged
| |
| | in with milk the love for sculpture in
|
| junction, take the middle path on the
| |
| | Settignano where I was raised, and where
|
| same level that swings to the left.
| |
| | part of the inhabitants are
|
| Do not walk uphill to the left or take
| |
| | sculptors⦠Michelangelo.
|
| the right downhill path. Keep following
| |
| | Bus number 10 from the piazza takes
|
| the red and white blazes. The path dips
| |
| | thirty minutes back down to Florence.
|
| down, the ground it rough, but you soon
| |
| |
|
